Milan is Italy’s economic powerhouse, a bustling city of finance and industry, media empires and fashion houses, backed up by an impressive cultural heritage of important art galleries and ancient churches. Yet a 40-minute train ride takes you to the azure pools of “the lakes”, lined with fishing villages, villas and laid-back resorts.
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A countryside abbey now surrounded by the roar of suburban Milan, Chiaravalle has survived the centuries since its construction (between 1172 and 1221) remarkably well. Its lovely Romanesque architecture is enhanced by 15th- and 16th-century murals and a Luini Madonna with Child in the right transept.
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At the tip of the Ogliasca peninsula sits this Benedictine abbey, cloaked in silence. The abbey was founded in the 9th century, and the little church has Romanesque carvings decorating the water stoups and the capitals and bases of the columns in the quiet cloister. The monks distil – and sell – some potent liqueurs too.
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During Rome’s decline Milan became de facto capital of the Western Empire. Constantine, holding court here in 313, made Christianity the Empire’s official religion, setting a new course for European history.
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Built in 1600, the hotel has a mountain chalet look to it. The receptionists can be brusque, but the rooms are cosy, if unimaginatively furnished. Book a room at the front, where small, flower-filled balconies give views over the bustling main drag below.
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After a long absence from La Scala, Verdi offered this Egyptian melodrama.
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Pricey and out in the suburbs, yet Aimo and Nadia (a Tuscan-born husband-and-wife team) run this place with exquisite taste throughout, and it ranks among Milan’s very, very best (see Aimo e Nadia, Milan).
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Aimo and Nadia Moroni are acknowledged as the top chefs in all Milan. They are fanatical about hunting down the very best ingredients, and it shows in such delectables as risotto with pumpkin flowers and truffles. It’s a bit of a haul from the centre of the city, but it is very much worth it.
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Of Naviglio’s many great eateries, this is one of the few whose renown is entirely due to the quality of food (see Al Pont de Ferr, Milan).
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Set at the foot of its namesake iron bridge over a canal, this Navigli standby boasts on its menu: “Good cooking is a friend of the good life and an enemy of a hurried one”. You can ponder this over a long, satisfying meal.
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An old fashioned restaurant with fancy gilt mirrors and lacy tablecloths. A china cup of parsnip cream soup is offered "on the house", main courses are innovative and use the best fresh produce, try the mousse of char with apple puree to start followed by brochettes of caregone in white wine sauce, the tiramasiu is a must and should be slowly savoured. The wine is locally produced and the finest on offer in the area, allow about 30 euro per head for 3 courses with wine. This restaurant will exceed all expectations and is used by the locals, often a testament in itself.
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Hotel price categories
For a standard, double room per night (with breakfast if included), taxes and extra charges.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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