DK Travel : Milan and the Lakes

Milan is Italy’s economic powerhouse, a bustling city of finance and industry, media empires and fashion houses, backed up by an impressive cultural heritage of important art galleries and ancient churches. Yet a 40-minute train ride takes you to the azure pools of “the lakes”, lined with fishing villages, villas and laid-back resorts.

La Scala

The world’s greatest opera house was built in 1776–8 under the Austrians. It boasts a sumptuous interior, excellent acoustics and a staggering list of premieres (see Top 10 La Scala Premieres). Half destroyed in World War II, La Scala again became the toast of the town in 1946 when conductor Arturo Toscanini presided over its gala reopening. Check website for up-to-date programme listings and booking information.
La Scala

After an extensive restoration programme this magnificent opera house has recently reopened.
La Sosta, Cremona

A wood-panelled osteria loved by locals for its home cooking. The gnocchi vecchia Cremona (honey-roasted potato dumplings stuffed with salami) is a 17th-century recipe.
La Terrazza

Mediterranean seafood in the Swiss Consulate, with views over the public gardens.
La Vecchia Arona, Arona

Franco Carrera is an enthusiastic and innovative reinterpreter of “traditional” dishes. The menu changes daily in accordance with his whim.
Lagostina, Crusinallo-Omegna, Lake Orta

The discount factory outlet for the famed homewares designer. Get 30–50% off here and at similar outlets on the same road – Bialetti (No. 106) and Fratelli Piazza Effepi (No. 242) – and Alessi (Via privata Alessi). Look for slight irregulars (sformati ) for bigger savings.
Lake Fish

Several fish favourites are plucked daily from Lombardy’s lakes. The best include persico (perch), lavarello (a whitefish), trota (trout), luccio (pike), coregone (another whitefish) and tinca (tench).
Lake Idro

A slip of a lake just west of Garda, Lake Idro is renowned for its trout, sailing, windsurfing and fine skiing in the surrounding mountains. Sports and the lake’s natural beauty are to the fore, while cultural highlights are Anfo’s 16th-century castle and the 15th-century frescos in the church of Sant’Antonio.
Lake Iseo

This is the prettiest of the smaller lakes, and the town of Iseo itself – with modest hotel complexes and watersports facilities – is as touristy as it gets. Further north, at Lovere, Galleria Taldini has a small but perfectly formed collection of paintings by the likes of Jacopo Bellini, Tintoretto and Tiepolo. The interior of the church of Santa Maria della Neve, on the edge of Pisogne, is a visual delight of equal merit, its abundant frescoes painted by Romanino in 1532–4 (if the church is locked, enquire at the café inside the adjacent cloisters).
Lake Iseo

Lake Iseo sits between Bergamo and Brescia, west of Lake Garda. It's not so commercialised as the better known lakes and makes a lovely holiday destination.

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