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Highly original cuisine (strawberry risotto, chicken in orange-peppercorn sauce). The décor mixes rough stone and wrought-iron fixtures with funky modern elegance.

Miniscule, arty disco with live acts and throngs of trendy Milanese stuffed into a narrow space and spilling out onto the street.

This arty Brera hold-out of bohemianism squeezes a tiny stage and an enthusiastic crowd into a narrow space to enjoy live music. It’s as popular as it is small; don’t expect to get a table, or be able to hear the person next to you.

A mix of local and Piemontese cuisines. The caramelle di ricotta e spinaci (like ravioli) can’t be beaten.

The capital of the lake’s southeastern arm is famous for sights related to native writer Alessandro Manzoni, who set parts of his I Promessi Sposi (see I Promessi Sposi (The Betrothed)) in the suburban hamlet of Olate.

Don’t miss the 11th-century San Stefano and neighbouring baptistry. Just north of town, in Mezzagra, a black cross marks the spot where Mussolini was shot by partisans.

The ultimate Renaissance Man was a genius painter, inventor and scientist. His sfumato technique of blurring outlines and progressively hazing distances lent his works tremendous illusory depth. His inventions – including helicopters, machine guns and water systems – were centuries ahead of their time but mostly confined to sketches, though working models have now been built at Milan’s technical museum. (see Leonardo’s Last Supper, Museums and Museo Nazionale della Scienza e delle Tecnica – Leonardo da Vinci)

One of the largest and most ingenious works created by the ultimate Renaissance Man. It is in an advanced state of deterioration now, but even the shadow that remains of this great work can teach us volumes about Renaissance ideals.

A rustic restaurant just off the main square that has been serving scrumptious mantovana fare since 1750, such as tortelli di zucca (pasta stuffed with pumpkin).

The Italian Art Nouveau of the early 20th century delighted in asymmetrical organic curves.