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Of Bellini’s three La Scala premieres, the most famous is Norma , a Druid-Roman love triangle that ends badly.

This modest one-star hotel is hidden two blocks behind the Duomo and has a few quirky touches, such as huge stone sinks, moulded door frames and stone balconies, but otherwise is fitted with beaten-up modular furnishings and prone to a grumpy management.

Distinctive variations on local dishes and a judicious use of lake fish.

Milan celebrates its patron saint with a street fair surrounding Piazza Sant’Ambrogio. The name is said to have come from the delighted squeals of children who, upon beholding such a marvellous fair, once cried in Milanese dialect “Oh, how pretty! Oh, how pretty!”

Also slightly fizzy, lighter and tangier than Lambrusco. The Garda region also produces familiar varietals.

La Scala is the most important opera house in the world, and if you ever doubted opera was art, a night at its 18th-century home will help you transcend all doubt. The season opens on 7 December – the feast day of Milan’s patron saint, Ambrose – and is a momentous occasion in the Milanese social calendar.

Succulent veal chops, cut across the shin bone, dredged in flour, lightly fried, then slow-cooked in wine and tomatoes with a bit of lemon-parsley-garlic gremolata tossed on top. Proper ossobuco is served on the bone (its very name means “bone-hole”, though that sounds better in Italian): digging out the rich marrow is an integral part of enjoying the dish.

Menaggio’s hostel doubles as a favourite spot for ultra-cheap dinners. You serve yourself (and do your own washing up), but the cooking is pretty good.

Milan’s rather institutional hostel is located out of the city centre, near the San Siro stadium. It has a nice garden, however.