Milan is Italy’s economic powerhouse, a bustling city of finance and industry, media empires and fashion houses, backed up by an impressive cultural heritage of important art galleries and ancient churches. Yet a 40-minute train ride takes you to the azure pools of “the lakes”, lined with fishing villages, villas and laid-back resorts.
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Milan’s Neo-Classical Royal Palace was built under the aegis of Empress Maria Theresa in the 18th century and extended in 1939–56 with the Arengario, a pair of towering pavilions on Piazza Duomo. The vast ballroom of the Arengario is open for exhibitions. In other wings are the Museo del Duomo and a contemporary art museum (see Civico Museo d’Arte Contemporanea, Milan), with works by Boccioni, Modigliani, Morandi, De Chirico and De Pisis.
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All across Italy at Christmas time people snap up boxes of this traditional Lombard cake, though locals enjoy it year-round. It is quite dry, and studded with fruit and candied peel.
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Little round tables and Guinness on tap just a few steps off the main square.
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Milan’s only real park started life as the 15th-century ducal gardens, though its layout, laced with pathways, dates from the late 19th century. A fine little free aquarium is housed in a 1906 Liberty-style structure. There are also fountains (one by Giorgio de Chirico), exhibition halls, a sports arena and the triumphal Arco della Pace.
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An exclusive Neo-Palladian stunner sitting on a panoramic perch above its own regal gardens and beach. Antique furnishings and exquisite dining.
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A modest hotel with sort of modern-rustic décor and rooms overlooking the water.
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A delightfully Old World café and chocolatier near the Last Supper (see Pasticceria Marchesi, Milan).
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A wonderful old-fashioned café and chocolatier happily “discovered” by many a visitor trekking out to see the Last Supper . The décor hasn’t changed since 1824, the coffee is quite good and the pastries are favoured by Giorgio Armani.
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The capital of northern Italy during the Dark Ages is now lost in Milan’s suburban sprawl but retains its historic centre. In addition to the glorious Certosa (see Certosa di Pavia), other important churches include San Pietro in Ciel d’Oro and San Michele, both full of Romanesque carvings, and the Duomo, whose architects included Bramante and Leonardo. Pavia also boasts a Renaissance bridge and 14th-century castle with paintings by Antonella da Messina, Correggio, Bellini, Luini and Tiepolo.
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Stresa’s top restaurant piles on the elegance with bow-tied service and a wood-panelled dining room. What’s best, though, is the vine-shaded cobbled courtyard, where you can enjoy hearty local dishes with a modern twist.
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Hotel price categories
For a standard, double room per night (with breakfast if included), taxes and extra charges.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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