Milan is Italy’s economic powerhouse, a bustling city of finance and industry, media empires and fashion houses, backed up by an impressive cultural heritage of important art galleries and ancient churches. Yet a 40-minute train ride takes you to the azure pools of “the lakes”, lined with fishing villages, villas and laid-back resorts.
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The Rovello’s sister hotel sits on one of the few streets remaining of Old Milan; a crooked cobblestoned lane of little shops and classic Milanese restaurants. Sensible, comfortable rooms range from cramped to spacious. You’re well positioned for Milan’s top sights.
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A dozen classy mono-apartments right in the heart of Milan’s chichi shopping district. Expect walnut floors, satellite TVs, and flowering ivy cascading down the walls of the private courtyard. Linens are changed daily; kitchenettes cleaned twice a day.
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One of the oldest churches in Milan, it was founded by the city’s bishop and patron saint Ambrose in 379. It’s filled with mosaics and carvings dating back to the 4th century.
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Second only to the Duomo among Milan’s great churches (and to many, rather more beautiful), this 4th-century basilica, with a cloistered entryway, Paleochristian mosaics, medieval carvings and late Renaissance frescoes, counts among the region’s main Top 10.
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St Ambrose himself, Milan’s 4th-century bishop, inaugurated this church, which was overhauled in the 11th and 12th centuries. Highlights include a quiet entry atrium, Dark-Age mosaics glittering in the apse, and medieval features.
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This historic café and tea room is also known for making some of the best chocolates in Italy (see Sant’Ambroseus, Milan).
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Looking every inch the 1936 café, from its wood-panelling to its pink stucco decorations, Sant’Ambroseus is counted among the great temples of chocolate in Italy. Their speciality is the ambrogiotti : an indulgence of dark chocolate wrapped around an egg cream.
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The chapels opening off the right side of this ancient church were added between the 11th and 13th centuries, and frescoed in the 1300s and 1400s – Bergognone provided the triptych in the first one. The immense and impressive Arc of St Peter Martyr in the magnificent Portinari Chapel (see Sant’Eustorgio, Milan) was carved by Balduccio.
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Ignore the insipid 19th-century façade, for the church behind it is ancient, founded in the 4th century. Beyond the main church and behind the altar is the cappella Portinari. It was designed locally, but so superbly did it embody early Renaissance Florentine ideals that it was for a long time attributed to Brunelleschi or Michelozzo. The chapel’s masterpieces are the 1486 frescoes by Vicenzo Foppa.
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A veteran of Navigli nightlife – a jazz bar with quality live acts nightly, a restaurant and pizzeria, and a barge for al fresco fun.
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Hotel price categories
For a standard, double room per night (with breakfast if included), taxes and extra charges.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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