Milan is Italy’s economic powerhouse, a bustling city of finance and industry, media empires and fashion houses, backed up by an impressive cultural heritage of important art galleries and ancient churches. Yet a 40-minute train ride takes you to the azure pools of “the lakes”, lined with fishing villages, villas and laid-back resorts.
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In their northern reaches the lakes are bound by Italian pre-Alps that extend the resorts’ seasons year-round.
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After 5pm or so, many Milanese bars and cafés practise the lovely habit of laying out platters of mini-sandwiches, canapés, olives, crisps and other snacks at the bar, all free for the munching as long as you order at least one drink. You can easily flit from one bar to the next, and make a decent early dinner out of it all.
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One of the best hotels in Riva: lakeside piazza location; decent restaurant; great value; and free bicycles for guests.
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This gem, designed by Urbano Pierini and filled with original works by contemporary artists, is near the Piazza Duomo. Stylish rooms come with wonderful features such as marble sinks and hydromassage shower stalls. Room rates drop 20 per cent Friday to Sunday.
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A thrift shop with slightly used and reconditioned clothing for men and women. Great leather jackets and retro items.
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Wood-floored shop from 1836 selling its own sweets, torrone (nougat), cordials, liqueurs, candied fruits and “cherries with spirit”.
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Two-star amenities (only half the rooms have private baths and TVs) and a four-star location on a pedestrian street one block off the Piazza del Duomo, all at one-star prices. Rooms on the top floors get more light; those on the courtyard escape the noise from trams.
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The northern end of Lake Garda is buffeted by strong winds blowing down from the Sarca Valley in the north in morning (the sover ) and south up the lake in the afternoon (the ora ). Together, they make for some of the best wind-surfing and sailing conditions on any lake in Western Europe, and all summer long watersports fans flock from far and wide to Riva and its neighbour Torbole to thrash the waves (see Limone sul Garda).
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Milan’s bishop put down the Arian heresy and helped establish Church autonomy.
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St Ambrose’s star pupil – an African-born philosopher.
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Hotel price categories
For a standard, double room per night (with breakfast if included), taxes and extra charges.
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