Milan is Italy’s economic powerhouse, a bustling city of finance and industry, media empires and fashion houses, backed up by an impressive cultural heritage of important art galleries and ancient churches. Yet a 40-minute train ride takes you to the azure pools of “the lakes”, lined with fishing villages, villas and laid-back resorts.
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The crusading archbishop carried out Counter-Reformation ideals in the north.
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George Lucas knew that even his vaunted digital special effects couldn’t hold a candle to the extraterrestrial beauty of Lake Como, which, with very little touching-up, filled in for Naboo’s lake district in the fifth Star Wars instalment, Attack of the Clones (2002). Beautiful Villa Balbianello (see Villa Balbianello, Lake Como) is again a backdrop for romantic scenes.
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Milan’s massive railway station is often considered a remarkable example of Fascist-era architecture, though its design (of 1912) pre-dates this period and owes more to the Liberty style. Finally completed in 1931, the station is caked in gleaming white Aurisina stone and decorated with reliefs, statues and murals too often overlooked.
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They’re called “priest-stranglers” because these little balls of ricotta and spinach are deemed so rich they’d choke a poor prelate’s simple palate. Usually served under a butter and parmesan glaze, though sometimes with tomato sauce.
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The gateway to the Isole Borromee is a pretty lakeside burg that offers hotels, a grid of trattoria-lined pedestrian streets and quite a good summer music festival (see Settimane Musicali, Stresa). Just south of town, the Villa Pallavicino has a botanical garden and small zoo.
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The home of Amati and Stradivarius celebrates luthiers and musicians in a series of festivals. An annual exhibition of instruments is accompanied by related contests (see A Violin Concert in Cremona).
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Ten simple rooms with TVs and fancy wood furniture above a restaurant.
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For a break from Italian fare, hit Milan’s oldest Indian restaurant for excellent-value tandoori and curries.
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If you feel some fashions just never go out of style, visit Milan’s top shop for secondhand and reproduction vintage couture from the past four decades.
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Formal restaurant installed in an evocative Renaissance palazzo on the main piazza, with outdoor dining in summer. Turn to the back of the menu for local specialities.
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Hotel price categories
For a standard, double room per night (with breakfast if included), taxes and extra charges.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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