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Milan is Italy’s economic powerhouse, a bustling city of finance and industry, media empires and fashion houses, backed up by an impressive cultural heritage of important art galleries and ancient churches. Yet a 40-minute train ride takes you to the azure pools of “the lakes”, lined with fishing villages, villas and laid-back resorts.
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The place for large portions of lake fish and pasta. For a great view, sit at a solarium table.
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A tiny resort whose main claim to fame is the Villa Carlotta (see Villa Carlotta, Tremezzo).
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The 90-year-old Bergamo glove-making firm is now one of the top designers of supple leather goods and ready-to-wear fashions.
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Founded by a Bergamasco glove-maker in 1910, Trussardi produces classic cuts and gorgeous leather accessories.
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Tunnel is actually a warehouse squirrelled away under the arches on the back side of the main railway station (Stazione Centrale). This is the place to catch the next big thing in Italian, and sometimes even international, alternative rock acts and top DJs.
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This warehouse under the railway station is where you come to see rock bands before they become big stars.
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Puccini struck lucky again with exotic Asian fare – and, for once, a happy(ish) ending.
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The first place D H Lawrence and his lover Frieda settled during their European peregrinations was the shores of Lake Garda, during the winter of 1912–13. In 1916 he compiled his notes on those happy first months spent in Italy and wrote this travelogue.
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Day One
The smaller lakes and towns are scattered across Lombardy and eastern Piemonte, impossible to see in one short trip, but some of the best can been enjoyed on a leisurely two-day drive from Lake Garda to Lake Como.
Head west on the A4 Autostrada to Brescia to spend your first morning admiring its museum and Roman sights. Having lunched at Due Stelle (see Due Stelle, Brescia), continue to nearby Lake Iseo. Explore the eastern shore, especially the Romanino frescoes in Pisogne, the small museum in Lovere and the weird rock pinnacles outside of Zone.
If you can, spend the night at I Due Roccoli (see I Due Roccoli, Iseo), or at least have dinner there (see I Due Roccoli, Iseo, Lake Iseo).
Day Two
On Day Two, drive north into the Val Calmonica (see Val Calmonica Villages) to view some of the valley’s prehistoric rock carvings. Then head back south to diverge west at Lovere for the back road to Bergamo.
Check into your hotel and spend the afternoon enjoying the Renaissance architecture and carvings of the Colleoni Chapel, the excellent Accademia Carrara gallery, medieval town square and, of course, the town’s shops, cafés and wine bars.
End your day with a hearty meal at the aptly named Antica Hosteria del Vino Buono (the “Ancient Inn of Good Wine”; (see Antica Hosteria del Vino Buono, Bergamo)).
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Day One
If you’re here to relax and sightsee rather than thrash the waves up near Riva (see Riva del Garda), then spend your days on the southern end of the lake. Sirmione is both a charming and lively base.
On your first day, stop in Desenzano to see the Villa Romana before driving out to Sirmione itself. Walk out to the far tip of the peninsula to wander the ruins of the Grotte di Catullo (see Grotte di Catullo, Sirmione). On your way back into town, divert to the right to pop into San Pietro and see its medieval frescoes.
Navigate the throngs of the tiny centre to clamber up the balustrades of the Rocca Scagliera (see Rocca Scagliera, Sirmione) for a sunset panorama.
Take a passeggiata (stroll) with the crowds before heading down to the Vecchia Lugana (see Vecchia Lugana, Sirmione) for an exquisite evening meal.
Day Two
On day two, drive around to Gardone Riviera to tour Gabriele d’Annunzio’s delightfully idiosyncratic Il Vittoriale, then have a refined meal on the terrace of the Villa Fiordaliso (see Villa Fiordaliso, Gardone Riviera).
After lunch, take the time to wander the grounds at Giardino Botanico Hruska before either making your leisurely way back to Sirmione – if you are basing yourself there – or heading further up the lake to explore the small lakeside towns of Limone or Riva (see Limone sul Garda, Riva del Garda).
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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