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The capital of the lake’s southeastern arm is famous for sights related to native writer Alessandro Manzoni, who set parts of his I Promessi Sposi (see I Promessi Sposi (The Betrothed)) in the suburban hamlet of Olate.

Don’t miss the 11th-century San Stefano and neighbouring baptistry. Just north of town, in Mezzagra, a black cross marks the spot where Mussolini was shot by partisans.

Little Limone is tucked into a cove, with a long beach, small harbour and dozens of hotels.

Sadly, most of this Swiss city capping the northern end of the lake was rebuilt along modern Swiss lines of concrete, glass and steel. What remains of the medieval city, however, is worth crossing the border for. The 14th-century Castello Visconteo is a highlight, as is the Santuario della Madonna del Sasso (1497), which preserves paintings by Bramantino and Ciseri (avoid the long climb by taking the cable car). The Arps (20th-century artists Jean, Hans and Margherita) donated many works to a modern art gallery installed in the 17th-century Casa Rusca.

Built in 1158 after Barbarossa (see 1176: Lombard League Defeats Barbarossa) razed the original town 5 km (3 miles) to the west, Lodi is celebrated for its Duomo and octagonal church of the Incoronata. The latter is slathered with frescoes, gilded stuccoes and fine paintings by Il Bergognone.

The Museo del Giocatolo e del Bambino in Milan traces the history of play from the 18th century to today in display cases built at a child’s-eye level. The exhibits are protected behind glass, but there is a small playroom for some hands-on fun.

This museum houses important works from the treasuries of churches across Milan and Lombardy. In addition to numerous small panels by the 14th- and early 15th-century post-Giotto Gothic schools of central Italy, it preserves 17th-century Flemish tapestries and a number of fine altarpieces. Among these are Hayez’s glowing Crucifixion with Mary Magdalene and Tintoretto’s Christ and the Adulturer .