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Milan and the Lakes : Places to eat

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  • Comfortable, modernish lounge with deep cushions, decent snacks and good cocktails.

  • This minimalist, down-to-business café has been around forever, best-known for a quick espresso in the morning and an aperitivo stop in the evening.

  • Barchetta, Bellagio

    For such a beloved resort, Bellagio oddly lacks superlative eateries, save perhaps this “little boat”. The recipes are local and well-prepared, the ambience amicable and the prices appropriate.

  • Barchetta, Lake Como

    Restaurants in such touristy towns as Bellagio rarely rise to the level of quality that this has achieved under chef-owner Armando Valli and his assistant Davide Angelini. The signature dish is the sinfonia degli otto sapori del lago , a “symphony” of eight lake fishes. For dessert, try the traditional paradel – honey ice cream with raisins (see Barchetta, Bellagio).

    Barchetta exterior
  • A Sicilian couple has run this crowded joint for over 30 years, but they stick to a Neapolitan recipe for their wood-oven pizzas.

  • Riva’s Tyrolean roots show in this “Austrian” bierhalle, where wurstel (sausage) and schnitzels hold sway on the menu.

  • Laid-back little osteria serving home-made pastas and simple, hearty seconds under vaulted ceilings.

  • Hard-core Milanese cooking in an 18th-century palazzo , favoured by bankers and fashion bigwigs.

  • Italian chain of fast-yet-excellent food. You carry a tray around to various food-prep islands, where the dishes are cooked to order.

  • Caffè del Tasso, Bergamo

    For over 500 years, the Tasso has been Bergamo’s meeting spot for everyone from princes to rebels. Garibaldi and his red shirts met here in revolutionary days; in fact, it was once such a hotbed of discontent that a decree (displayed on the wall) was made in 1845 prohibiting rebellious conversations here. Now the only seditious sentiments are grumbles about the price of a cappuccino.

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