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Milan and the Lakes : Places to eat

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  • When Teresa D’Ambrosio opened this place, she envisaged the fin de siècle cafés where artists met, writers scribbled away at corner tables, professors spent an hour or two poring over the papers and political thinkers made plans in hushed tones. And, indeed, Milan’s intelligentsia do appear to have taken the bait and placed themselves at appropriate tables.

  • Caffè Martini

    This café may be overpriced but is great for Duomo views and watching the people, processions and protest rallies at Milan’s heart.

  • Gianfranco and Ornella Dallai run this debonair restaurant, with recipes based around fresh lake fish and foul. Banquet-like “tasting menus” and fabulous desserts.

  • Top conservatory with free concerts by Milan’s philharmonic orchestra.

  • Run by former Vogue fashion editor Carla Sozzani with the same over-priced, excruciatingly trendy verve that has made her attached boutique such a popular success, the café offers great aperitivi and a chance to hobnob with Milan’s elite.

  • Nestling in the heart of Milan’s boutique district since 1817, Cova offers excellent coffee and pastries (see Cova, Milan).

  • Cova, Milan

    The Faccioli family opened Cova near La Scala theatre in 1817 and, though it was later moved to Milan’s prime shopping street, Via Montenapoleone, it has remained in the family – and continues to be café of choice for the city’s elite – ever since. Its made-in-house pastries, chocolates and sandwiches are some of the most exquisite in town, and they brew up a mean cappuccino to boot. There’s an elegant little tea room with refined service if all the window shopping has left you too tired to stand, but since this is still Italy, you’re also welcome to just run in and toss back an espresso.

    Cova, Milan
  • Minimalist chic eatery complete with liveried doorman and astronomic prices (see Cracco-Peck, Milan).

  • Cracco-Peck, Milan

    In 2000–2001, this bastion of fine Milanese cooking was completely overhauled and reopened under the guidance of Carlo Cracco, who once worked in Alain Ducasse’s fabled Montecarlo restaurant. You will find wonderful classics here, including risotto or cotoletta alla milanese and ossobuco (see Culinary Highlights of Lombardy). If the stratospheric prices make you cringe, know that just around the corner at Via Spadari 9 is plain old “Peck”, one of the finest food emporia in Italy, where raw ingredients and prepared dishes can make up a glorious picnic.

  • A mix of rustic and elegant at a restaurant set in the remains of a castle. Charming candlelit terrace tables and regional food prepared with an inventive touch.

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