Bergamo
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One of Northern Italy’s surprising gems, Bergamo mixes medieval charm with a cultural sophistication that has made it popular among Italy’s cognoscenti. Bergamo has been a split-level town since Roman times, when a civitas (today’s medieval Upper Town) perched atop the hill and a suburbia (the modernized Lower Town) spread into the plain.
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1. Piazza del Duomo
1. Piazza del DuomoThis square is dominated by elaborate Bergamasco architecture: the entrance to Santa Maria Maggiore, the façade of the Capella Colleoni and a fanciful baptistery of 1340.
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2. Piazza Vecchia
2. Piazza VecchiaOne of Northern Italy’s most theatrical squares is surrounded by retro-medieval stone buildings, Renaissance palaces, a 12th-century tower and several historic cafés.
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3. Cappella Colleoni
The anchor of the twinned Piazzas Vecchia and del Duomo is this magnificent Renaissance chapel devoted to Bergamo’s warrior-lord Bartolomeo Colleoni. In pink and white patterned marble, it is covered with reliefs and Rococo frescoes.
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4. Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore
4. Basilica di Santa Maria MaggioreInside the basilica, every inch of ceiling is covered with frescoes. Against the back wall is the tomb of composer Gaetano Donizetti. The gorgeous, early 16th-century, inlaid wood panels fronting the choir are by Lorenzo Lotto.
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5. Museo Donizettiano
Here are the original sheet music, piano and memorabilia of Bergamo’s early 19th-century composer Gaetano Donizetti. He died, in the very bed on display here, of syphilis in 1848.
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6. Via Colleoni
6. Via ColleoniThe main drag of Bergamo’s Upper Town is lined with shops and wine bars, modest medieval palaces and churches, tiny squares and half-timbered houses. It’s closed to most traffic, and filled every evening with hordes of locals and visitors.
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7. Castello
Built by the town’s Venetian lords in the 16th and 17th centuries, the castle in the hamlet of San Vigilio on Bergamo’s hill has been reduced to the romantically decrepit ruins you can see today, with a public garden boasting fine views.
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8. Galleria d’Arte Moderna e Contemporanea
Bergamo’s modern art gallery features exhibitions alongside a permanent collection with works by some of Italy’s key 20th-century painters: Giovanni Fattori, Boccioni, De Chirico, and Morandi as well as some nice Kandinskys.
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9. Galleria dell’ Accademia Carrara
This excellent gallery is renowned for its outstanding works by early 16th-century master Lorenzo Lotto. Paintings by Raphael, Botticelli, Bellini and Mantegna round out the collections.
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10. Teatro Donizetti
Although the façade dates from 1897, this respected theatre was built in 1792, and the Neo-Classical interiors are wonderfully preserved. It has an annual opera season, plus ballet and drama.
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