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Milan and the Lakes : Bergamo

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Bergamo

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  • One of Northern Italy’s surprising gems, Bergamo mixes medieval charm with a cultural sophistication that has made it popular among Italy’s cognoscenti. Bergamo has been a split-level town since Roman times, when a civitas (today’s medieval Upper Town) perched atop the hill and a suburbia (the modernized Lower Town) spread into the plain.

Top 10 Sights
  • Piazza del Duomo 1. Piazza del Duomo
    1. Piazza del Duomo

    This square is dominated by elaborate Bergamasco architecture: the entrance to Santa Maria Maggiore, the façade of the Capella Colleoni and a fanciful baptistery of 1340.

  • Piazza Vecchia 2. Piazza Vecchia
    2. Piazza Vecchia

    One of Northern Italy’s most theatrical squares is surrounded by retro-medieval stone buildings, Renaissance palaces, a 12th-century tower and several historic cafés.

  • 3. Cappella Colleoni

    The anchor of the twinned Piazzas Vecchia and del Duomo is this magnificent Renaissance chapel devoted to Bergamo’s warrior-lord Bartolomeo Colleoni. In pink and white patterned marble, it is covered with reliefs and Rococo frescoes.

  • Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore 4. Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore
    4. Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore

    Inside the basilica, every inch of ceiling is covered with frescoes. Against the back wall is the tomb of composer Gaetano Donizetti. The gorgeous, early 16th-century, inlaid wood panels fronting the choir are by Lorenzo Lotto.

  • 5. Museo Donizettiano

    Here are the original sheet music, piano and memorabilia of Bergamo’s early 19th-century composer Gaetano Donizetti. He died, in the very bed on display here, of syphilis in 1848.

  • Via Colleoni 6. Via Colleoni
    6. Via Colleoni

    The main drag of Bergamo’s Upper Town is lined with shops and wine bars, modest medieval palaces and churches, tiny squares and half-timbered houses. It’s closed to most traffic, and filled every evening with hordes of locals and visitors.

  • 7. Castello

    Built by the town’s Venetian lords in the 16th and 17th centuries, the castle in the hamlet of San Vigilio on Bergamo’s hill has been reduced to the romantically decrepit ruins you can see today, with a public garden boasting fine views.

  • 8. Galleria d’Arte Moderna e Contemporanea

    Bergamo’s modern art gallery features exhibitions alongside a permanent collection with works by some of Italy’s key 20th-century painters: Giovanni Fattori, Boccioni, De Chirico, and Morandi as well as some nice Kandinskys.

  • 9. Galleria dell’ Accademia Carrara

    This excellent gallery is renowned for its outstanding works by early 16th-century master Lorenzo Lotto. Paintings by Raphael, Botticelli, Bellini and Mantegna round out the collections.

  • 10. Teatro Donizetti

    Although the façade dates from 1897, this respected theatre was built in 1792, and the Neo-Classical interiors are wonderfully preserved. It has an annual opera season, plus ballet and drama.

Practical Information
To get to the Upper Town from the train station, take bus 1 or 1A and transfer (free) to the Funicolare Bergamo Alta. The Caffè del Funiculare has sweeping views over the valley, and over 50 beers and 100 whiskies (see Shops, Cafés and Nightspots in Smaller Lakes and Towns and Places to Eat in Smaller Lakes and Towns). Tourist info, Upper Town: Vicolo Aquila Nera 2 (off Piazza Vecchia) 035-232-730 www.apt.bergamo.it Basilica 9am–noon (until 1pm Sun), 3–6pm daily; free Museo Donizettiano 9:30am–1pm, 2–5:30pm Tue–Sun; Oct–Mar: closed weekday afternoons; free Castello 9am–dusk daily free Galleria d’Arte 10am–1pm, 3–6:45pm Tue–Sun free Galleria dell’Accademia Carrara 9:30am–1pm, 2:30–6:45pm Tue–Sun (Oct-Mar: to 5:45pm); adm €2.58
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