DK Travel : Milan and the Lakes : Castello Sforzesco

Castello Sforzesco

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This massive, sun-baked rectangular bastion in Milan is actually a complex of fortresses, castles and towers begun in 1451 for Francesco Sforza, largely restored in 1893–1904, and again after massive World War II damage. Its many collections include art and sculpture from the early Middle Ages to the 18th century, decorative arts, musical instruments, Oriental art, and archaeology – all free of charge.

Top 10 Highlights

1. Michelangelo’s Rondanini Pietà

Michelangelo started his career with a Pietà carved at the age of 25 (now in St Peter’s, Rome), and while the master was famous for not finishing his statues, in this instance it was not his fault. At the age of 89, in 1564, he was struck down (probably by a stroke) literally while chipping away at this sculpture.
2. Funerary Monument for Gaston de Foix

Gaston de Foix was Duke of Nemours, Marshall of France, ruler of the French Milan Duchy, post-humous hero of the 1512 Battle of Ravenna and Louis XII’s nephew. His tomb’s ethereally sculpted elements, carved by Bambaia in 1510, are now dispersed (see Castello Sforzesco).
3. Sala delle Asse

The “Plank Hall” was decorated in 1498 by Leonardo da Vinci with a trompe l’oeil arbour of geometrically intricate vines on the vaulted ceiling. This was painted over many times; the only bit we can be sure is original is a monochrome sketch of a twisting root, on the wall between the two windows.
4. Mantegna’s Madonna in Glory

Bellini’s famous brother-in-law painted this magnificent altarpiece for a Verona church in 1497, making it one of his final works. The harshness of his youthful style is tempered by age and experience to yield this solid, naturalistic approach.
5. Bellini’s Madonna and Child

This is an early Bellini, painted 1468–70, with touching detail. Mary wears a pearl-trimmed pink shawl. Jesus gazes at a lemon in his hand.
6. Bellini’s Poet Laureate

The attribution of this portrait, painted in 1475, has wavered between Bellini and Antonella da Messina. There is an almost Flemish attention to detail in the hair and eyes of the subject.
7. Arcimboldo’s Primavera

Arcimboldo developed the weird style of painting metaphoric “portraits” – in this case, using fruits and flowers to personify “Spring” as a human profile.
8. Trivulzio Tapestries

The Tapestries of the Twelve Months were designed by Bramantino in 1503 and named for the man who commissioned them, General Gian Giacomo Trivulzio.
9. Civico Museo Archeologico

Milan’s civic archaeology museum’s collections go from local, Lombard artifacts of Paleolithic tribes to Italy’s last Celtic peoples of the 1st century BC.
10. Parco Sempione

The 47-hectare (115-acre) park northwest of the castle is central Milan’s only real green space. A public park since 1893, many of its structures are fine early 20th-century Art Nouveau.

Practical Information

Ask about special tours, sometimes at night, that can get you into many non-museum sections of the castle that are normally closed to the public, and sometimes up on to the battlements themselves. The snack vans on-site are over-priced, and the nearest bars are best avoided. Head down Via Dante to the café at no. 15, where you can enjoy oversized panini and decent gelato . Piazza Castello, Milan 02-8846-3807 www.milanocastello.it 9am–5:30pm daily Free Some sections closed for renovation 2002–2003/4; locations of displays may change