DK Travel : Milan and the Lakes : Certosa di Pavia

Certosa di Pavia

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Gian Galeazzo Visconti founded this charterhouse in 1396 as a vast family mausoleum, set 8 km (5 miles) north of Pavia. Finished in the mid-16th century under the Sforzas, it became one of the great monuments of the Lombard Renaissance. After the 1782 suppression of the Carthusian order, it was abandoned, then inhabited for brief spells until, in 1968, the Cistercians moved in to stay.
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Top 10 Highlights

1. Façade

The astounding and rich façade has decorative flourishes and polychrome marbles that set it apart and make it one of Italy’s most important and idiosyncratic examples of late 15th-century architecture. The initial work was undertaken in 1473–99; the top part was continued after 1525, but never finished.
2. Perugino’s Altarpiece

The central panel of the Eternal Father (1499) is all that remains here of the original full altarpiece by Umbrian master (and Raphael’s first teacher) Perugino. The flanking panels are by Bergognone, while below are 16th-century reproductions of the other, original Perugino panels.
3. Bergognone’s Works

Bergognone rules the Certosa, providing altarpieces for three chapels, plus part of Perugino’s altarpiece. He also frescoed the seventh chapel on the right and the ends of both transepts, brilliantly blue with lapis lazuli.
4. St Ambrose with Saints

In Bergognone’s 1492 altarpiece in the sixth chapel on the left, St Ambrose is enthroned and surrounded by four saints. The group is in a setting similar to the chapel interior, to create the illusion that they are present.
5. Funerary Monument of Ludovico il Moro and Beatrice d’Este

The most renowned work in the Certosa is an empty tomb (see Certosa di Pavia), with remarkably lifelike effigies of the couple lying in state, carved in 1497 by Cristoforo Solari.
6. Ivory Altar

The Florentine sculptor Baldassare degli Embriachi carved this ivory triptych altarpiece (1400–1409), with 76 compartments and more than 100 tiny statues. It was stolen in 1984, leading to the uncovering of a ring of international art thieves outside Naples. The treasure, slightly damaged, was recovered.
7. Tomb of Gian Galeazzo Visconti

It’s only fitting that the Certosa’s founder should be buried here, in a monument of 1492–7 depicting scenes from Visconti’s life, carved by Gian Cristoforo Romano. The sarcophagus below is by Andrea Alessi, while the statues of the Virgin , Fame and Victory were added in the mid-16th century.
8. Great Cloister

This large arcaded cloister is lined with the homes of the Cistercian monks who still inhabit the Certosa. These are cosy little two-storey houses with a tiny private chapel and walled gardens at the back.
9. Little Cloister

Guiniforte Solari designed this lovely arcaded space for the monks to gather and contemplate – and probably admire the magnificent flank of the church above.
10. Monks’ Shop

The Cistercian monks make their own Chartreuse liqueurs, herbal soaps and scents, which they sell here to the public.

Practical Information

Avoid visiting at the weekend, when the sight is very crowded. To get past the elaborate 1660 iron screen at the end of the nave, wait until one of the monks escorts a small group in to see the famous tombs and cloisters. There’s nowhere to eat near the Certosa, so either head into Pavia itself, or bring a picnic and buy some of the monks’ liqueur. Via del Monumento 4, Pavia Oct–Mar: 9–11:30am, 2:30–4:30pm Tue–Sun; Apr: 9–11:30am, 2:30–5:30pm Tue–Sun May–Sep: 9–11:30am, 2:30–6pm Tue–Sun Free For more details, contact Pavia’s tourist office 0382-22-156