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Morning
To cruise the lake you can buy point-to-point tickets, or peruse the single-ticket cruises that visit several towns and may include villa admissions. This itinerary assumes you have already checked out Como’s sights before spending the night in Bellagio.
Begin the next day with a cappuccino at Bellagio’s Caffè Rossi across from the dock before boarding the 10:30am boat to Villa Carlotta, where you have an hour to visit the collection of art and lush gardens of the lake’s greatest villa.
Catch the ferry down to Isola Comacina to dig into a sumptuous feast at the Locanda (see Locanda dell’Isola Comacina, Ossuccio). After a second helping of their “spiked” coffee, you’ll have a bit of time to work off the meal by exploring the island’s overgrown church ruins before grabbing the boat back up the lake to Varenna.
Mid-afternoon
Continue walking off the big lunch by climbing up to the romantic, panoramic Castello di Vezio above town, then descend and pop into Varenna’s little churches. Poke around the gardens of Villa Monastero, then finally head down to the lakefront arcade for a short stroll then a meal by the water at the splendid Vecchia Varenna (see Vecchia Varenna, Varenna).
Unless you decide to spend a relaxing night in quiet and little visited Varenna, make sure you finish dinner before 9pm, when the last ferry leaves for Bellagio.
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