Garda is the most sporting of the Italian lakes. The crosswinds to the north and the dominating slopes of Monte Baldo draw windsurfers and paragliders, while other adrenaline-filled sports, such as rock climbing, and the more leisurely pursuit of golf, provide further distractions. Garda also enjoys some of the best Roman-era remains in northern Italy at Sirmione and Desenzano, as well as atmospheric medieval castles in Torri del Benaco, Malcesine, Vallegio and Sirmione. Since the 18th century, Garda’s summer villas and verdant gardens have lured such luminaries as Goethe, Malcesine, Byron and D H Lawrence, though the region also found infamy as the place of Mussolini’s last stand.
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The golf at Garda isn’t great, but if you want to break out the nine-iron, there are several courses on the southwest shore and one on the east shore.
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Bardolino has been famous since Roman times for its light red wine, celebrated at the museum. The town also has two wonderful Romanesque churches.
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A Sicilian couple has run this crowded joint for over 30 years, but they stick to a Neapolitan recipe for their wood-oven pizzas.
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Riva’s Tyrolean roots show in this “Austrian” bierhalle, where wurstel (sausage) and schnitzels hold sway on the menu.
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Perched above town, this 12th-century castle is in a state of near-total ruin. Only one wall remains of the imposing central keep, and the sole room in the complex to survive intact was filled with debris until 1986. When it was cleared, a surprise discovery found several excellent late 14th-century frescoes depicting nobles playing at board games and war.
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Gianfranco and Ornella Dallai run this debonair restaurant, with recipes based around fresh lake fish and foul. Banquet-like “tasting menus” and fabulous desserts.
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For adventure sports such as climbing and canyoning, head to Arco, just north of Riva, for the Guide Alpine or Multi Sport Centre, which can also hook you up with a paragliding run, as can Paragliding Club in Malcesine.
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This disco spins house and 70s–80s pop and funk in a refined, Mediterranean-style club two miles off the autostrada. Once a month there’s a theme party night.
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A large and delightful town, settled in the Bronze Age and a retreat since the Roman era. Its top attraction is the Villa Romana (see Villa Romana, Desenzano).
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This disco overlooks the harbour from giant picture windows.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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