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Luigi Cagnola built this magnificent triumphal arch in 1807 for Napoleon to pass through when visiting Milan. It didn’t get finished quite in time and was inaugurated instead by a bemused Habsburg emperor.

One of half a dozen bars and gelaterie (ice-cream parlours) lining a pedestrianized stretch just north of the Pinacoteca. It was one of Milan’s first bohemian bars, given its name by a local journalist who thought it resembled the bar in Hitchcock’s Jamaica Inn .

Comfortable, Parisian-style café with outdoor seating, a decent food menu, tasty cocktails and Guinness on tap (see Bar Magenta, Milan).

Comfortable, modernish lounge with deep cushions, decent snacks and good cocktails.

This minimalist, down-to-business café has been around forever, best-known for a quick espresso in the morning and an aperitivo stop in the evening.

Boggi has been dressing the Milanese for years, providing them with classy men’s clothing and footwear at very reasonable prices.

Italian chain of fast-yet-excellent food. You carry a tray around to various food-prep islands, where the dishes are cooked to order.

The 14th-century Certosan abbey has largely vanished under Milan’s suburbs, but its church of Santa Maria Assunta survives. It is capped with a fine late Renaissance façade, and the interior was frescoed by Daniele Crespi in 1629 with stories of the Certosan order.

Milan’s vast mid-19th-century cemetery is most popular for a pantheonic monument housing (among others) the remains of Alessandro Manzoni (see I Promessi Sposi (The Betrothed)). The grounds are filled with Art Nouveau tombs of Milan’s top families – a free map shows where such notables as Arturo Toscanini rest in peace. Corners have been set aside for non-Catholic graves, and there’s a monument to Jews deported by the Nazis.