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Perched above town, this 12th-century castle is in a state of near-total ruin. Only one wall remains of the imposing central keep, and the sole room in the complex to survive intact was filled with debris until 1986. When it was cleared, a surprise discovery found several excellent late 14th-century frescoes depicting nobles playing at board games and war.

Carlo Sigurtà spent 40 years irrigating and planting this barren hillside in order to turn it into one of Italy’s great gardens, with manicured lawns and pathways amid vibrant flower beds and reflecting pools. Hidden along the far western edge are some large enclosures where deer and goats run free. The gardens are a 20-minute drive south of the lake-side.

Though the ancient Roman poet Catullus did take his holidays at Sirmione, there’s no evidence to suggest that this vast, ancient house at the very tip of Sirmione’s peninsula was actually his villa – in fact, it was probably built after Catullus’s death, sometime in the 1st century BC. It is the best surviving example of a Roman private home in northern Italy, but this didn’t stop it being mis-named a “grotto”, the result of the romantically overgrown and cave-like state it had assumed by the Middle Ages.

This over-the-top villa was built by poet, solider and adventurer Gabriele d’Annunzio, one of Italy’s most flamboyant characters from the turn of the 20th century (see Il Vittoriale, Lake Garda).

Garda’s largest island once supported a monastery that attracted the great medieval saints: Francis of Assisi, Anthony of Padua and Bernardino of Siena. The monastery was destroyed by Napoleon and replaced in 1890– 1903 with a Neo-Gothic Venetian-style villa and luxuriant English and Italianate gardens. Two-hour tours take place twice a week and, though the admission price is high, it does include a boat ride and a snack.

This small but lovely set of botanical gardens features more than 2,000 species on a terraced hillside (see Giardino Botanico Hruska, Lake Garda).

Little Limone is tucked into a cove, with a long beach, small harbour and dozens of hotels.

A bustling town, blessed with good surfing and the medieval Torre d’Apponale and Rocca Castle. Just inland lies Arco, home to an elegantly ruined castle (see Lake Garda).

The 13th-century keep is at the narrowest point of Sirmione’s long, thin peninsula. The striking, angular pale grey stone citadel, in use as a fortress until the 19th century, still dominates and protects the town – the only way to enter Sirmione is over the moat on one of the castle drawbridges, then under one of its squat gate towers. It’s worth climbing the 30-m (95-ft) tower for the grand panorama.

This genteely faded resort became the capital of Mussolini’s short-lived Republic of Salò (1943–5) in the closing chapters of World War II.

The loveliest town on the lake is set at the tip of a long peninsula. It has the ruins of an ancient Roman villa and a remarkably intact medieval castle (see Grotte di Catullo, Sirmione, Rocca Scagliera, Sirmione).

Among exhibitions on local natural history and prehistory, the town’s castle contains a room devoted to Goethe, who was briefly imprisoned as a suspected Austrian spy when he was caught sketching the castle.

This little town was once the capital of Lake Garda and important enough in the 14th century for Verona’s Scaligeri family (who controlled much of Lake Garda) to build one of their solid, stoic castles. This one contains a modest museum on local history including the prehistoric rock carvings found on the nearby mountainsides. To see some of these 8,000-year-old etchings, follow signs off the main road up to Crer then walk up the trail about 15 minutes to a spot where the mountain’s rock face shows through the undergrowth.

These twin towns enjoy a great beach and the glorious church of Sant’Andrea, with its Romanesque capitals and fading frescoes.

The most important late Imperial villa remaining in Northern Italy was built in the 1st century BC, but the excellent polychrome floor mosaics are mostly of the 4th and 5th centuries. By that time, the local Romans were Christianized, which explains the late 4th-century glass bowl engraved with an image of Christ.

History put Torbole on the map in 1439 (see Lake Garda). Aside from that, the town is known chiefly as a good base for lake sports.

The fruits of Gardone’s long popularity as a resort developed into magnificent villas and gardens, including Hruska and the Vittoriale (see Il Vittoriale, Gardone Riviera, Giardino Botanico Hruska, Gardone Riviera).

Under the icon of a goofy green dragon named Prezzemolo (“Parsley”), the park boasts roller coasters and carnival rides, a water park, jungle safari, ice shows, dolphin tricks and medieval spectacles. Italy’s greatest theme park isn’t quite Disneyland, but it’s a hoot for the kids.

A large and delightful town, settled in the Bronze Age and a retreat since the Roman era. Its top attraction is the Villa Romana (see Villa Romana, Desenzano).

The fruits of Gardone’s long popularity as a resort developed into magnificent villas and gardens, including Hruska and the Vittoriale (see Il Vittoriale, Gardone Riviera, Giardino Botanico Hruska, Gardone Riviera).

Book ahead for a table on this palace’s long terrace overlooking the bobbing fishing boats in the harbour. A highly praised mix of regional and international cooking.

A modest, friendly trattoria serving simple pastas and grilled fish.

A converted farmhouse at the base of the peninsula, where service is refined and the cooking a cross of regional favourites and flights of culinary fancy.

Up on the panoramic terrace overlooking the town, you can enjoy lake specialities and cool breezes.

A gorgeous historic villa and hotel, serving impeccable food that revisits the formidable tradition of Italian cooking (see Villa Fiordaliso, Lake Garda).

The Bignotti family’s genteel restaurant delights gourmands with a creative menu based around seasonal ingredients and local fish and meats.

Riva’s Tyrolean roots show in this “Austrian” bierhalle, where wurstel (sausage) and schnitzels hold sway on the menu.

Elegance, stupendous lake views from its terrace and a perfect balance of creative cuisine and traditional recipes. Fresh lake fish, delicious mountain cheeses and over 800 wines in the cellar – wonderful.

Gianfranco and Ornella Dallai run this debonair restaurant, with recipes based around fresh lake fish and foul. Banquet-like “tasting menus” and fabulous desserts.

Book ahead for a table on this palace’s long terrace overlooking the bobbing fishing boats in the harbour. A highly praised mix of regional and international cooking.