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A popular town, containing the gardens of villas Serbelloni and Melzi, a Romanesque church, a café-lined harbour front and a pretty warren of medieval alleys (see Villa Serbelloni, Bellagio, Villa Melzi, Bellagio).

Italy’s silk capital was founded by the Romans and has a spectacular cathedral (see Duomo, Como), a handful of modest museums, lots of boutiques and two ancient churches.

Como’s statue-clad cathedral was begun in 1396, but not capped with its Juvara-designed dome until 1740. On the façade, the pilasters are lined with saints and the main door is flanked by the seated figures of two local ancient scholars, Pliny the Elder and his nephew Pliny the Younger. The interior preserves an intricately carved and painted wooden altarpiece of 1492 and nine fabulous 16th-century tapestries, produced in Flemish, Florentine and Ferrarese workshops.

Duomo, Como

Standing forlorn in Como’s industrial suburbs, this stony Romanesque church retains a pair of bell towers and an extended choir that links it, architecturally, to the Westwerk style of medieval Germany. The apse is gorgeously frescoed with a series of Biblical scenes.

On tiny Lake Annone in the Brianza triangle between Como and Lecco, Civate is the access point to San Pietro al Monte, a wonderful 11th-century monastic complex.

Garden seating, a homely atmosphere and gourmet set-priced menus make this a foodie haven in the village of Maggianico outside Lecco.

One of the best-value set menus on the lake draws a local post-theatre crowd, Como’s soccer team and budget-minded travellers alike.

Many restaurants in town serve over-priced tourist slop, so locals patronize this homely trattoria and pizzeria.

A mix of rustic and elegant at a restaurant set in the remains of a castle. Charming candlelit terrace tables and regional food prepared with an inventive touch.