The city south of the Centro Storico Core is dominated by the majority of Milan’s most impressive churches: ancient Sant’Ambrogio and majestic San Lorenzo Maggiore; Sant’Eustorgio, with its remarkable carvings and paintings; the Renaissance piles of Santa Maria della Passione and Santa Maria presso San Celso; and the quirky 18th-century cloverleaf of La Besana. There’s also the fantastic Science and Technology Museum, housed in a former convent; within its broad scope, the museum pays due homage to Leonardo da Vinci’s oft-overlooked scientific genius with an excellent display of his technical drawings and models. Further to the south stretch the Navigli canals, once a bustling centre of Milanese commerce and now host to the city’s liveliest nightlife and dining scene.
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Morning
To spend time with the great Renaissance genius you must transgress the division between north and south Milan.
Begin the day’s itinerary at the Cordusio metro stop, then walk west on Via Meravigli three blocks to the corner with Via S Maria alla Porta for a cappuccino at Pasticceria Marchesi. Continue west, and pop into the Museo Archeologico (see Civico Museo Archeologico) for 20 minutes of historical musing.
Make reservations long in advance for a 10am admission to the Last Supper (see Santa Maria delle Grazie). Take time to fully appreciate Leonardo’s art.
Go east along Corso Magenta to Via Carducci to relax at the Art Nouveau Bar Magenta and enjoy an early lunch.
Afternoon/Evening
Turn down Via Carducci four long blocks to Via San Vittore (you’ll see across the street the Pusterla di S Ambrogio, a remnant of the medieval city gates) and turn right for the Museo della Scienza (see Museo Nazionale della Scienza e delle Tecnica – Leonardo da Vinci).
At around 3:30pm double back along Via S Vittore to S Ambrogio. Trek down Via Edmondo De Amicis to Corso della Porta Ticinese, where your first stop is the magnificent San Lorenzo Maggiore . Peruse the works in the Museo Diocesano, then continue to Sant’Eustorgio.
A block south brings you into the bar and restaurant zone of the Navigli, ready for a post-itinerary drink and a superb meal (see Shops and Nightspots in Southern Milan, Places to Eat in Southern Milan).
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A countryside abbey now surrounded by the roar of suburban Milan, Chiaravalle has survived the centuries since its construction (between 1172 and 1221) remarkably well. Its lovely Romanesque architecture is enhanced by 15th- and 16th-century murals and a Luini Madonna with Child in the right transept.
Abbazia di Chiaravalle
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Pricey and out in the suburbs, yet Aimo and Nadia (a Tuscan-born husband-and-wife team) run this place with exquisite taste throughout, and it ranks among Milan’s very, very best (see Aimo e Nadia, Milan).
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Of Naviglio’s many great eateries, this is one of the few whose renown is entirely due to the quality of food (see Al Pont de Ferr, Milan).
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Its theme is simple: include Italian cheeses in as many dishes as possible, culminating in a stupendous cheese platter.
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All the major labels for men and women, including whatever’s hot this season. No great deals, but a remarkably broad selection.
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Large, noisy room where the youth down beers from glasses so tall and unwieldy they require wooden stands to support them.
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A post-modern disco owned by a group of Premier League footballers. The DJs spin everything from revival pop to salsa.
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A restaurant, Naviglio-front tavern, part-time live music venue and proud owner of a miniscule canal that was, in times gone by, used by Milanese washerwomen.
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Bargain-basement prices on brand-name clothing (Missoni, Ferrè, Yves St Laurent). Major label dresses under €150, suits under €200.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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