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Milan’s cathedral is a Gothic wonderland of flying buttresses, soaring pinnacles, saintly statues, spiral staircases and hideous gargoyles – fun to explore for kids aged 5 to 95 (see Milan’s Duomo).

Milan’s Museo Nazionale della Scienza e delle Tecnica has the usual impressive collection of a major science museum – historic cars, TV sets, steam engines, a planetarium and (in the Naval Museum upstairs) thousands of model ships – and it also has Leonardo. The Renaissance genius “invented” (at least on paper) everything from helicopters to labour-saving mechanical devices. Full-scale models help bring his visions to life and may just help pique a youngster’s interest in the whole Renaissance thing (see Museo Nazionale della Scienza e delle Tecnica – Leonardo da Vinci).

Italy’s rich tradition of puppet shows, from Sicily’s epic tales of Saracen warriors and Charlemagne’s knights to Naples’ slap-stick Pulcinella (Punch and Judy) shows, has almost died out. Thankfully, here and there master puppeteers such as Cosetta and Gianni Colla at Milan’s Teatro delle Marionette keep the tradition alive and update the stories to appeal to a modern audience.

The Museo del Giocatolo e del Bambino in Milan traces the history of play from the 18th century to today in display cases built at a child’s-eye level. The exhibits are protected behind glass, but there is a small playroom for some hands-on fun.

Italy’s gelato puts all other ice creams in the world to shame. There are dozens of classic parlours around Milan, including Rachelli (Via Hugo 4), Bastianello (Via Borgogna 5) and Grasso (Viale Doria 17). Elsewhere, be sure there’s the sign “produzione propria ”, indicating that it’s homemade. The true litmus test is to look for natural colours: you want banana that’s naturally (if unappetizingly) grey, not bright yellow.

An emotion-packed calcio (football) match at Milan’s striking San Siro stadium (see San Siro (Stadio Meazza)) is fun for sports fans of all ages. And with two Serie A teams calling Milan home – Inter and AC Milan – the chances of catching a top-flight match during the season are excellent. Check out their websites for game schedules, or the LegaCalcio website for information on Lombardy’s other two Serie A squads, Como and Brescia. Alternatively, the Inter-Milan Museum (Gate 4, San Siro) comprises a visit to the stadium and the changing rooms.

Italy’s top theme park, by Lake Garda, is a far cry from Disneyland, but it does have roller coasters, a jungle safari and a thrilling water park. It’s a place where older children can be dropped off for a day of fun while the parents drive off to explore those “boring villas and gardens” the kids are probably complaining about right now.

Garda is near perfect for all levels of surfers. There’s enough wind to satisfy the experienced, but since the lake waters are relatively calm for most of the time, even novices can get out there and learn the techniques.

You can relive the Middle Ages by exploring Lombardy’s castles, scrambling up watch-towers and patrolling the ramparts like a soldier of old. The Castello Sforzesco in Milan is mostly a museum, though regular tours take you up onto the battlements. Those on the lakes can be more atmospheric, some with intriguing museums, others romantically half in ruins. The best fortresses are at Varenna, and Arco, Malcésine and Sirmione (see Grotte di Catullo, Sirmione) by Lake Garda.

The city of Mantova is flat, virtually surrounded by lakes and plains that stretch up and down the Mincio River, all of it begging to be explored on two wheels. It’s a welcome break from all the churches and museums that can numb even an avid art fan, and a chance to delve into the more physical side of Italian culture.