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Italian trains, run by FS, are speedy and efficient, but don’t cover every Lombard corner. Each station posts its own schedule – departures on yellow, arrivals on white – and newsstands sell national schedules. Ticket lines can be long (automated machines are now helping), and strikes (sciopero ) annoyingly frequent. You must stamp one end of your ticket at the station’s or track’s yellow box before boarding.

Coaches (pullman) are slower and no cheaper than trains. They are best used to reach destinations where trains don’t go.

Lakes Como, Garda, Maggiore and Iseo each have a public ferry system run by Navigazione Laghi. The smaller lakes have skiffs connecting towns or running out to islands. Private boats and water taxis charge at least twice as much as public boats.

The best way to explore the environs. Local outfits are rarely cheaper than international agents, and arranging a rental from your home country is invariably the best option. Most companies require a theft protection charge, but check if your credit card covers this first.

TCI (Touring Club Italiano) maps are best and widely available in Italy. Michelin maps have more sightseeing indications, including scenic roads highlighted in green. Italian road signs (green for routing via Autostrada highways, blue for state roads) indicate destinations more often than route numbers; on any road, check the map to note the towns and villages it passes, as well as the destination city.

Speed limits: 30–50 kmh (20–30 mph) in town; 80–110 kmh (50–70 mph) on two-lane roads; and 130 kmh (80 mph) on highways. Left lanes are truly for passing only. On wide, hard-shouldered roads, Italians regularly pass by swerving into the oncoming traffic, which obliges by using its own hard shoulder.

Lombardy’s only toll roads are the autostrade connecting the main cities. Unleaded petrol is senza piombo or verde ; diesel is gasolio . Though most stations close Sundays, many have automated machines that accept notes and credit cards.

Though few hotels have their own parking, many have agreements with local garages. Round blue signs with a red slash mean no parking. Legal parking is always marked: white-lined spaces are free; yellow-lined spaces are restricted to residents only and blue spaces available for an hourly fee.

Milan has a mix of transport: buses, trams and an underground, and all use the same tickets. Buy them at tobacconists (tabacchi , indicated by a white-on-brown “T” sign), newsstands, or bars. Stamp one end on the bus or tram when you board. They are good for a set time period during which you may transfer.

You’ll find taxi ranks at airports and stations. Any hotel or restaurant will know the local Radio Taxi number to call for you. Standard rates go up with luggage, after 8pm, on Sundays, and for trips outside the centre. Tip about 10 per cent.