On friday nights and saturday mornings Montréal’s bridges are crowded with residents traveling out of town to enjoy the vast array of activities possible in the countryside surrounding the city. Whether for an afternoon, overnight or long weekend, les Laurentides (the Laurentian mountains) and the villages and hills of Cantons de l’Est (the Eastern Townships) are where Montrealers have traditionally ventured to hike in summer or ski in winter. River traffic through the locks at Sainte-Anne-de-Bellevue also buzzes with yachters and boaters heading west on the Ottawa River or east to Trois-Rivières, Québec City and on to the Atlantic Ocean. Beaches at Parc National d’Oka, Lac Memphrémagog or Lac des Sables are a magnet for sun-lovers in summer.
For details on outdoor activities in and around Montréal (see Outdoor Activities) When hiking the Piste de la P’tit Train du Nord make sure you wear good walking shoes and carry plenty of water.-
These islands are one of Montréal’s greatest escapes and one of Canada’s premier tourist areas, accessible either by car or train to Brockville. About two hours west of the border of Ontario and Québec, 1000 Islands actually covers 1,865 islands running the 80-km (50-mile) span from Brockville to Kingston, formed by meta-morphic rock at the end of the last Ice Age. St Lawrence Islands National Park is the jewel in the crown. Camp sites are available on 11 of the islands.
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Morning
Begin by taking Route 15, the Laurentian Autoroute, north to Exit 76, then join Route 117 north to the village of Val-David . At the Municipalité de Val-David (2501 rue de l’Eglise) you can obtain a map and detailed information about the region.
Walk down rue de l’Eglise to visit the Mille et Un Pots gallery and gift shop (2435 rue de l’Eglise). This exhibition of handmade pottery and works of art is the largest ceramic show in North America, produced by an esteemed collective of over 50 Québécois artists. For a great lunch, backtrack to rue de la Sapinière and turn right to Hotel la Sapinière (1244 chemin de la Sapinière 1-800 567 6635 $$$).
Afternoon
After lunch, explore the Piste de la P’tit Train du Nord , a green swath of protected trails snaking 200 km (125 miles) through the Laurentides on the old mountain train path. The defunct railroad line is perfect for hiking, cycling and walking in summer and cross-country skiing in winter. If cycling is your preference, Phénix Sports (2444 rue de l’Eglise) rents bikes.
Return to Val-David and, if you have the energy, shop for unusual Christmas decorations at Village du Père Noël (987 rue Morin), open all year. Then enjoy a traditional Québécois dinner at Restaurant Le Petit Poucet (see Rotisserie au Petit Poucet).
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Chef Jacques Robert satisfies his passion for wild mushroom hunting by blending them into gastronomic inventions such as veal with tarragon and mushrooms.
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One of the most celebrated French kitchens in the country on the banks of Lac Massawippi. The owners grow their own vegetables and boast an extensive wine cellar.
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Luxurious Auberge West Brome offers Lac Brome duck and other regional specialties, as well as first-class accommodations.
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A romantic inn serving venison, caribou, wild boar and maple syrup mousse.
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This bistro serves excellent boeuf Bourguignon and médaillon de cerf aux Calvados (venison with apple brandy).
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The food and service are the stuff of dreams in this welcoming house. Try mignon of pork with caramelized endive, compote of pear, goat’s cheese and tarragon.
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This natural wonderland is bounded by the Richelieu and St Lawrence rivers and the US states of Vermont, New Hampshire and Maine. The personality of the region owes its profile to the Appalachian Mountains, with top-notch hiking trails at Owl’s Head, Mont Sutton, Mont Bromont and Mont Orford. The peaceful villages throughout this vast district, such as Knowlton, are a historic remnant of 19th-century British settlement, their Victorian buildings now home to antiques shops and cafés (see Attractions in Cantons de l'Est, Restaurants in Cantons de l’Est).
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Visit the organic farm, tour the stables then relax on the terrace enjoying a burger, pasta, soups and salads. A store sells organic produce.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with a glass of house wine, and all unavoidable extra charges including tax.
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