Four distinct neighbourhoods flank the east bank of the Isar: Bogenhausen, Haidhausen, Au, and Giesing. Bogenhausen is an exclusive district studded with villas and inhabited by many prominent citizens; lively Haidhausen has the best and most extensive bar scene; parts of Au and Giesing, on the other hand, still have a special working-class charm. All were on the “other side” of the Isar from the Old Town and long retained their village character. To the west of the Isar, on the left bank, lie the Englischer Garten, Lehel with its beautiful historic buildings, and the Glockenbach quarter, Munich’s gay village. Most sights are found along the left bank, such as Müller’sches Volksbad, Villa Stuck, and – on an island in the river – the Deutsches Museum.
A plaque mounted on Gasteig commemorates Georg Elser’s attempt to assassinate Hitler in 1939. For details on the fascinating history of the Praterinsel and its monkish origins, visit www.praterinsel.de Some 64 beer cellars were located along the Isar between Wiener Platz and Gasteig in the 1860s when the area was a brewery district.-
Morning
Setting off from the Müller’sche Volksbad after coffee or breakfast at Café Stör, turn left at the baths along the Isar to the to the footbridge, which leads to Praterinsel. Walk through the teaching garden of the Alpine Museum (no entrance fee) and then across the island – making a brief stop at the cultural centre – until you reach Maximiliansbrücke, which will take you directly to the Maximilianeum. Pass the monument and turn right onto Sckellstr. Follow this street to Wiener Platz, its market stalls, and the Hofbräukeller. A narrow lane – An der Kreppe – runs from Wiener Platz to several of the historic inns found in the Glasscherben district. The Hofbräukeller offers reasonably priced food and a beer garden in summer.
Afternoon
Return to Sckellstr., cross Einsteinstr., and walk along Maria-Theresa-Str., flanked by beautiful Foundation Period and Art Nouveau houses. To the left, the shops in the arcades in Maximilianstr. invite browsing. Regardless of the route you take, all paths will eventually lead you to the Friedens-engel. Continue along for a few minutes until you reach Villa Stuck, the Art Nouveau museum par excellence. For a coffee break, try Wiener’s (Ismaninger Str. 71a), close to the No. 18 tram stop. Take the tram back to the city centre (Karlsplatz). The ride will take you past some of the most beautiful spots in Munich.
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One of Munich’s top Italian restaurants. Be bold and choose the surprise menu.
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Restored inns and hostels for day-labourers and brick workers give this corner of Haidhausen a village-like character.
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A neo-Romanesque parish church, St Anna (1892) is the result of an architecture competition.
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In the past, several small creeks ran through Munich, many of which were later filled in with concrete. One of the surviving creeks is the Auer Mühlbach, which is most visible east of the Isar. Just south of Ludwigsbrücke, this creek has formed a small island that is home to a restored ensemble of historic houses. Karl Valentin’s birthplace is nearby at Zeppelinstraße 41. The building is not open to the public.
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Large servings to satisfy supersized pizza cravings, plus a patio.
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Intimate, Italian-style neigh-bourhood café with a few outdoor tables. Delicious hot chocolate.
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Hidden in a rear courtyard, this is a café with Art Nouveau atmosphere. Large breakfast menu and generous selection of newspapers make for a relaxing morning. Small meals at lunchtime.
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Inexpensive lunch menu and delicious desserts, such as Venetian doughnuts. You can also enjoy afternoon coffee on the patio, or cocktails at night.
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Attractive Art Nouveau café with a glass roof in Müller’sches Volksbad. Tables are set out in the forecourt in summer. Italian lunch and dinner menu.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with a glass of wine or beer (or equivalent meal), taxes, and service charges.
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