traveldk.com

Looking diagonally across from the Müller’sche Volksbad, the island seen in the Isar is home to the largest museum of technology in the world. Eighty per cent of the Deutsches Museum was destroyed in World War II; however, the doors to the collection were open again by 1948. Plan at least a full day to see the principal exhibits.

Schwabing’s “backyard” is Germany’s largest urban park, offering a host of leisure opportunities – walks, beer gardens (Seehaus, Chinesischer Turm, Hirschau), jogging, boating, and – for the adventurous – surfing in the Eisbach, a small rocky stream with icy waters. The streets to the south of Münchner Freiheit lead almost directly to the Kleinhesseloher See and the Seehaus beer garden in the park.

The “Painter Prince” (1836–1904) greatly influenced Munich’s art scene.

Stuck (1863–1928) was co-founder of the Munich Secession. His Art Nouveau villa is now a museum.

Weinstraße, a lane off Marienplatz, leads to the Frauenkirche (1468–88), a basilica designed by Jörg von Halsbach. A lack of funds forced him to abandon his idea of Gothic towers. The “Swiss bonnets” that top the towers were added later and are perhaps the forerunners of all the onion domes in Bavaria. Highlights are the emperor’s tomb, Erasmus Grasser’s carving, and the statue of St Christopher.

Soaring high above the banks of the Isar, the Friedensengel (Angel of Peace, 1896–99) commemorates the Franco-Prussian war of 1870–71. Based on the Greek goddess Nike, this gilded figure stands 6 m (20 ft) tall. At its foot, two sweeping flights of stairs lead down from the escarpment to a terraced park with fountains on the lower end of Prinzregentenstraße.

This former Augustine Canons’ seminary, with its early Baroque abbey, was built by Gaspare and Domenico Zucalli between 1661 and 1690. The interior is decorated with lavish stuccowork.

The site of the former Bürgerspital hospital, and Bürgerbräu-keller, where Georg Elser failed in 1939 to assassinate Hitler, it was transformed into the red-brick Gasteig cultural centre between 1978 and 1985. Its facilities include the Munich Philharmonic, the Carl Orff concert hall, the headquarters of the adult education centre (Volkshochschule), and the municipal library.

Munich’s most famous pub dates from 1896 and was originally the royal court brewery, founded in 1598 by Wilhelm V. There is space for 1,000 patrons on the ground floor, where Hofbräu is, of course, the main beverage served – over 10,000 litres (2,600 gallons) per day. A barrel-vaulted banquet hall occupies the second floor and the complex also features a beautiful small beer garden. Walk through the winding lanes nearby, such as Burgstraße, to enjoy one of Munich’s most historic districts.

From the bridges that cross the Isar you can enjoy wonderful views of the river and the cityscape. One of the most historically important is the Ludwigsbrücke, between Deutsches Museum and Müller’sches Volksbad. Henry the Lion ordered that the bridge, built in 1157–58 by the Bishop of Freising, be demolished (it was located near today’s Oberföhring).This meant the salt road was diverted – effectively usurping lucrative customs fees from the bishopric. Henry then ordered a new bridge built farther to the south – where today’s Ludwigsbrücke stands. The new bridge, by which Benedictine monks had settled, was quickly surrounded by a thriving settlement later called München (literally, “near the monks”).