From one perspective, this area is an anomaly, at once one of the earth’s most beautiful and yet most accursed places. It has been the choice of the great and wealthy as their playground, while also being the scene of some of the greatest natural disasters and the grittiest human misery. Perhaps these irreconcilable twists of fate are at the root of the Neapolitans’ famously optimistic cynicism. The city of Naples itself is a vibrant urban setting, almost non-European in its intensity, while the beauty of the surrounding coast has been known to make grown men weep.
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This former convent is certainly convenient for anyone visiting Pompeii. The building is in the low-rise style of ancient Rome, and, like a typical Pompeian house, it is built around a quiet inner courtyard.
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Glowing pink at one end of the port, this is a very attractive choice, reached on foot down the stone stairs worn away by the steps of generations of fishermen. The hotel has spacious rooms, and there’s also a private pier where guests can anchor their boats.
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This bar-restaurant has vibrant decor inside and tables out under the arcades or in the sunny square. Internet connections also possible.
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Dishes vary depending on the season, but expect such creations as pumpkin with baby squid or salt-cod.
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These 18th-century gardens were influenced by Versailles (see Reggia di Caserta).
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In ancient times, this spot was part of the vast estate of the Roman general Lucullus. At the end of the 5th century an order of monks founded a monastery here, then the Normans built the first castle. It was modified by succeeding dynasties, achieving its present form in the 16th century. Legend has it that its name derives from a magic egg (uovo ) hidden inside, supposedly placed there by the Roman poet Virgil. The building is now used for cultural events.
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Despite its bulky towers of volcanic stone, this Renaissance castle also features one of the most graceful archway entrances of the period, delicately carved in the purest white marble.
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This rather sombre fortress is a study in stylistic contrasts – in direct opposition to its bulky grey towers, the marble Triumphal Arch exudes the delicacy of the early Renaissance. Inside, the spartan blankness is relieved by the wondrously complex ceiling of the Barons’ Hall, while the fresco fragments and sculptures in the chapel juxtapose with the harsh reality of the dungeons. In addition there are fine collections of religious and secular artwork. Go up to the battlements to take in the panorama (see Castel Nuovo, Naples).
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This Angevin castle dating from 1329 was upgraded to its six-point configuration in the 16th century, giving it a militaristic presence looming above the city. In later centuries it was used as a prison, remaining in military possession until 1976. It now houses libraries and cultural activities.
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This port town has been known since ancient times for its thermal springs – the many different waters are each thought to be therapeutic in specific ways. As with its neighbours, its beauty has been compromised by poverty and developers in recent decades, but it is not without charm, particularly along the central promenade. Nearby, the ruins of aristocratic villas, Arianna and San Marco, offer glimpses into wealthy lifestyles of 2,000 years ago (see Herculaneum, Oplontis & Stabiae).
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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Hotel price categories
For a standard, double room per night (with breakfast if included), taxes and extra charges.
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