DK Travel : Naples & the Amalfi Coast

From one perspective, this area is an anomaly, at once one of the earth’s most beautiful and yet most accursed places. It has been the choice of the great and wealthy as their playground, while also being the scene of some of the greatest natural disasters and the grittiest human misery. Perhaps these irreconcilable twists of fate are at the root of the Neapolitans’ famously optimistic cynicism. The city of Naples itself is a vibrant urban setting, almost non-European in its intensity, while the beauty of the surrounding coast has been known to make grown men weep.

Concerti al Tramonto, Villa San Michele, Anacapri

This genteel villa is the venue for sunset classical concerts (see Villa San Michele).
Contatto

Attracting mostly 20-somethings, Thursday is gay night at this disco-pub, with a country & western theme. In summer, the terrace is a nice plus, although the location is rather out of the way.
Contorni

The fertility of the land around Naples is never more evident that when you taste the produce it brings forth. For contorni (side dishes), peppers, artichokes, aubergine (eggplant), capers, mushrooms and green beans are offered steamed or sautéed. Expect the freshness of each vegetable to have been fully retained, cooked with just a touch of garlic, tomato or lemon, and some herbs.
Copies of Antiquities

Believe it or not, souvenir stalls outside archaeological sites – notably Pompeii – can be good sources of creditable copies of famous Roman sculptures, but you’ll need to pick through the junk and be prepared to bargain.
Coral & Cameos

The tradition of miniature carvings in stone is an ancient one – the Romans (and their Renaissance imitators) used precious and semiprecious stones, from agate to emerald, as well as layered glass. Today the tradition (see Reggia di Portici & the Vesuvian Villas) primarily focuses on gems from the sea. Coral is prized for its rich colours and soft texture, while shells are fashioned into delicate cameos.
Coral Stalls, Anacapri

To the left of the main square are stalls selling coral jewellery.
Corallium, Anacapri

A coral and cameo factory in Torre del Greco. The selection is extraordinary, created with both silver and gold, and prices are excellent. A certificate of guarantee comes with every purchase.
Correale di Terranova, Sorrento

In this 18th-century villa, archaeological finds include a 4th-century BC Greek original of Artemis on a Deer.
Corso Garibaldi, Naples

Naples at its grittiest, with a mind-boggling range of stuff.
Criscuolo, Amalfi

Here you’ll find a little bit of everything, all of it head and shoulders above the usual tourist trinkets. Coral necklaces with silver baubles and lapis lazuli or turquoise are particularly appealing.