From one perspective, this area is an anomaly, at once one of the earth’s most beautiful and yet most accursed places. It has been the choice of the great and wealthy as their playground, while also being the scene of some of the greatest natural disasters and the grittiest human misery. Perhaps these irreconcilable twists of fate are at the root of the Neapolitans’ famously optimistic cynicism. The city of Naples itself is a vibrant urban setting, almost non-European in its intensity, while the beauty of the surrounding coast has been known to make grown men weep.
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Yes, I know, a chain hotel. But this one is different. All the facilities you could want: spa, private beach, extraordinarly comfortable rooms plus an amazing view of the Bay and Vesuvius over (an extremely plentiful) breakfast. Busses take you to the train station for Pompeii or, if you're really intrepid, you can hire a car and drive along the coast to Positano and Amalfi. The local town (again transport is available) has all the restaurants, pizzerias and souvenir shops you might need as well as plenty of the local wine which I can personally recommend.
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For one week Italy’s publicly owned museums, historic and archaeological sites are free to all.
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This Greek settlement dates from the 8th century BC and flourished into Roman times.
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Begin at Lago d’Averno and pass under the Arco Felice to arrive at the ancient site of Cumae.
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Cumae was founded in the 8th century BC and played a significant part in history, due to its resident seeress. The Cumaean Sibyl, priestess of Apollo and similar to her counterpart at Delphi, was an oracle who exerted great influence, and the leaders of Rome depended on her prophecies and guidance in times of crisis. A visit to the Sibyl’s Grotto, with its weird trapezoidal entrance tunnel, remains an enigmatic experience.
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A family-run, unpretentious place serving good, traditional food. Tables on the terrace overlook the sea.
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Off a covered arcade just up from the Piazzetta, this place is a Capri institution. There’s usually an enticing buffet spread, as well as good pizzas and great views.
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To complement your wood-fired pizza here you are automatically served a basket of garlic bread.
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A favourite with locals. The pizza does not disappoint, and there are good wines too.
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Dining is home-style here, even to the occasional sharing of tables and bench seating. The pizza is good and there’s a reasonable choice of beer and wine.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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