DK Travel : Naples & the Amalfi Coast

From one perspective, this area is an anomaly, at once one of the earth’s most beautiful and yet most accursed places. It has been the choice of the great and wealthy as their playground, while also being the scene of some of the greatest natural disasters and the grittiest human misery. Perhaps these irreconcilable twists of fate are at the root of the Neapolitans’ famously optimistic cynicism. The city of Naples itself is a vibrant urban setting, almost non-European in its intensity, while the beauty of the surrounding coast has been known to make grown men weep.

Don Alfonso 1890, Sant’Agata sui Due Golfi, Sorrentine Peninsula

With three Michelin stars expect lavish elegance and impeccable food. Tasting menus and their accompanying wines reach such heights that the effect is nothing less than symphonic.
Donatello

The bas-relief of the Assumption, the cardinal’s head and the caryatid on the right of the Tomb of Cardinal Rinaldo Brancaccio in Sant’Angelo a Nilo church are assumed to be the only pieces in Naples by this Florentine master (1386–1466).
Duomo

In effect, Naples’ cathedral is at least three churches in one, including a treasure-laden Palaeo-Christian basilica from the 4th century. The side chapel dedicated to the city’s adored patron saint, San Gennaro, is so large and resplendent that it is really a church in its own right .
Duomo

Although its position in the present-day street-plan seems to be an afterthought and the perfunctory Neo-Gothic façade is less than inspiring, inside Naples’ cathedral is a fascinating cornucopia of history, art and local culture. There are ancient remains of the Greek and Roman cities to explore, including some beautiful paleo-Christian mosaics in the baptistry, and splendid art abounds in the main church and its chapels, including the huge work dedicated to the city’s patron saint, Gennaro (Januarius).
Duomo

The oldest wing of Naples’ cathedral is the city’s most ancient surviving building, a Paleo-Christian church dating from the 4th century. The cathedral also has the oldest baptistry in the western world. Archaeological excavations here have revealed structures reaching as far back as the ancient Greeks.
D’Angelo Santa Caterina Restaurant, Naples

For special events of any kind, you can’t do better than this. The food is excellent, focusing on a rich assortment of seafood antipasti notable for its delicate finesse, while the views are sublime, taking in the sweep of the entire bay. Be sure to commandeer a terrace table; the striped canopies and delightful multicoloured tile floor create an irresistibly charming impression.
Edenlandia

This traditional amusement park might be showing its age a bit and isn’t giving Disney any competition, but kids of all ages will find plenty to enjoy. Rides include a Big Dipper, a Ghost Train, a Canoe Flume and Bumper Cars, as well as several more high-tech options. A low-tech, old-fashioned choice that never fails to delight is Le Nuvole, a theatre group that features puppets and mime.
Eduardo De Filippo

De Filippo (1900–84) combined the roles of comic actor, manager and playwright. His comedies, originally in the Neapolitan dialect, revolve around the petty concerns of family life and were performed by his family troupe. His best known film is Napoli Milionaria (1950).
Enrico Caruso

Arguably the most famous tenor ever, Caruso was born in Naples in 1873. His 1901performance at the San Carlo was so heavily criticized that he never sang in Naples again.
Erchie & Cetara

The beach at Erchie is a small cove graced by a watch-tower, fishing boats and a few houses. At Cetara bathers share the narrow rocky strip with boats, but it’s good for a dip.

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Restaurant price categories

For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
- under €20
- €20–30
- €30–40
- €40–50
- over €50