From one perspective, this area is an anomaly, at once one of the earth’s most beautiful and yet most accursed places. It has been the choice of the great and wealthy as their playground, while also being the scene of some of the greatest natural disasters and the grittiest human misery. Perhaps these irreconcilable twists of fate are at the root of the Neapolitans’ famously optimistic cynicism. The city of Naples itself is a vibrant urban setting, almost non-European in its intensity, while the beauty of the surrounding coast has been known to make grown men weep.
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Born in Naples in 1668, Vico found fame with his influential La Scienza Nuova (The New Science) (1725).
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Author of The Decameron (1348–53), 10 tales of ribaldry in medieval Naples.
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The “god” of Italian opera wrote his first opera for the theatre, Alzira , in 1845.
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More excellent seafood here, renowned since 1889. Popular for receptions and celebrations, so book ahead.
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Italian artisans have been famed for centuries for their goldwork, from refined chains to elaborate table centrepieces. Neapolitan artists have inherited these traditions since ancient times and local jewellery shops attest to the beauty of their creations. All gold used is at least 18 carat and prices are comparable with those in other countries, while the quality is higher.
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Gouache is a watercolour paint applied to heavy paper that gives a very soft yet vibrant look to the surface of a painting. In the 19th century gouache landscapes of Naples, its bay and Vesuvius were produced in great numbers and many are still available at surprisingly reasonable prices. These were the postcard souvenirs for Grand Tour visitors, and to the modern eye they evoke a sense of idyllic charm. There are also prints of the more famous scenes.
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This café dominates the scene on this beautiful and crowded piazza. It offers a good range of local desserts and savoury snacks, and excellent Neapolitan-style coffee.
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Historic and utterly beautiful, with its clifftop position, extensive well-manicured gardens and grounds, and lavish public and private spaces. One of the world’s best.
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This grand country villa has an array of elegant touches, from terracotta vases adorning the gate, to the busts of Roman emperors, gardens, fountains and pool. Rooms are spacious and the dining is superb.
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This elegant hotel has a large dining room offering set meals, as well as à la carte selections.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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Hotel price categories
For a standard, double room per night (with breakfast if included), taxes and extra charges.
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