From one perspective, this area is an anomaly, at once one of the earth’s most beautiful and yet most accursed places. It has been the choice of the great and wealthy as their playground, while also being the scene of some of the greatest natural disasters and the grittiest human misery. Perhaps these irreconcilable twists of fate are at the root of the Neapolitans’ famously optimistic cynicism. The city of Naples itself is a vibrant urban setting, almost non-European in its intensity, while the beauty of the surrounding coast has been known to make grown men weep.
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Besides the host of fresh leaves and cherry tomatoes that end up in the wonderful salads (insalata ) here, there are two famous cold dishes from the area. The insalata caprese is the essence of simplicity, relying on quality mozzarella di bufala , ripe tomatoes and aromatic basil. Caponata may include marinated aubergine (eggplant), artichoke hearts and capers, with bread chunks to soak up the flavours.
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Renowned for centuries for its gorgeous intarsio (marquetry), Sorrento continues the tradition to this day, and some of the pieces are true works of art.
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Located inside the archaeological site, near the Forum Baths, this place offers bar service, a self-service cafeteria and a restaurant, with seating under the colonnade. The food is not bad, but the biggest plus is a break from the intensive sightseeing.
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This trendy establishment offers Internet facilities, drinks and snacks, and an art gallery.
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The mainstay of Piazza Bellini and a good place to hang out and enjoy a drink. In warm weather it’s also a lively gay venue in the evenings.
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This large bar-café-bookshop-publisher is a magnet on this attractive piazza. It’s a wonderful place to have a drink and soak up the intellectual ambience.
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To gain access to any beach here – at least the good parts – you will need to pay, but for around €15 to €20 per day you receive the use of a sunbed and an umbrella. There are plenty of beaches to choose from, including sandy stretches in Forio and Ischia Porto. More out-of-the-way options include San Montano and Sorgeto.
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The walks and hikes on this island are plentiful. A memorable trek is up Monte Epomeo from Forio, through Fontana, taking about 40 minutes.
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The island of Ischia is surmounted by an extinct 788-m (2,585-ft) volcano, Monte Epomeo, and the many hot mineral springs here (some of them radioactive) have drawn cure- and pleasure-seekers to their soothing sources since ancient times. Green and rugged in appearance, the island also benefits from fine, long beaches. Like Capri, Ischia has had its share of famous residents – in the 19th century the Norwegian playwright Henrik Ibsen wrote Peer Gynt during a stay here, while in the 20th century the English poet W.H. Auden and his homosexual circle scandalized the locals. The island was also the first place in the area to be colonized by the Greeks, in the 8th century BC.
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The parks in Naples are best for jogging, primarily Villa La Floridiana (see Villa La Floridiana, Naples), which has plenty of foliage to block out direct sun. Further afield, Parco Virgiliano has plenty of space for a run. For in-line skating, Naples’ seafront has flat stretches.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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