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The Spanish painter (1590–1652) spent much of his life in Naples, where he created powerful and original works. These include his San Sebastiano in the Certosa di San Martino.

Circumnavigating Capri in one of these tiny pleasure canoes (1- or 2-person) is an unforgettable experience, taking about five hours if you stop to check out the occasional grotto or go for a swim. A treat is sailing through the arched hole in the largest faraglioni rock, but make sure no power boats are doing it at the same time, or you might be swamped.

In 1734 the Spanish king arrived in Naples. He was heir to the Farnese clan, who were Italian by birth, and transformed his new home town into a city of the Enlightenment.

Napoleon’s brother-in-law ascended the throne of Naples in 1808 but was executed in 1815.

This reggae club is not at all kinky – in fact, decidedly mainstream for this city, which seems to love the Caribbean beat. In summer the operation moves outdoors to local beaches.

The tiny dance floor here gets plenty of action to the sounds of funk, reggae or whatever gets people going. Closing time is flexible, tending towards very late.

In Italy the festival of the Epiphany is personified by La Befana, a witch-like hag flying in on a broom who delivers gifts to good children and puts “lumps of coal” (actually sweets) in the shoes of naughty ones.

The south of Italy is known for its hand-painted ceramics. A host of traditional designs are featured here, from simple earthenware beakers to decorative plates with complex scenes.

More Neapolitan-style pizzas from wood-fired ovens. There is also a good selection of seafood, either grilled or combined with pasta.

Positioned to the right of the beach, with dining on a porticoed balcony. Seafood is the thing to go for.