DK Travel : Naples & the Amalfi Coast

From one perspective, this area is an anomaly, at once one of the earth’s most beautiful and yet most accursed places. It has been the choice of the great and wealthy as their playground, while also being the scene of some of the greatest natural disasters and the grittiest human misery. Perhaps these irreconcilable twists of fate are at the root of the Neapolitans’ famously optimistic cynicism. The city of Naples itself is a vibrant urban setting, almost non-European in its intensity, while the beauty of the surrounding coast has been known to make grown men weep.

Anfiteatro Cumano, Cumae

Dine either inside or on the terrace in the garden. For a delicious experience, try the linguine alla marinara (egg pasta with seafood).
Anfiteatro Flavio

This is the third-largest Roman amphitheatre in the world, after those at Rome and Capua – again making it clear how important this area was to the empire. It had a seating capacity of 40,000 and was equipped with an array of below-floor apparatus for making the venationes (wild animal “hunts”) that took place here as theatrical as possible. Nowhere are such systems so well preserved, thanks to the lower portion of the structure having been buried until modern times.
Angevin Capital

In the mid-13th century, the French Anjou dynasty, having taken over the Kingdom of Sicily, shifted its capital to Naples, to the great joy of the residents. Many new buildings were constructed, including, in 1279, the Castel Nuovo.
Antica Trattoria da Ciuffello, Pozzuoli

Overlooking the central piazza, this restaurant is well known for its grilled specialities. Their consummate zuppa di pesce (fish soup) is a meal all in itself.
Antipasti

The first course may be marinated fish or seafood, a selection of olives and cured meats, bruschetta (toasted bread) with a variety of toppings or prosciutto (ham) with figs or melon, depending on the season. The meal could stop here and you won’t have missed out on the pleasures of the Italian table.
Antiques

The area remains one of the great sources for antiques; especially plentiful are Baroque and Rococo furniture, as well as Empire pieces. Antique ceramics, too, are a good buy, notably handpainted tiles.
Antonio Bassolino

Naples’ left-wing mayor from 1993 to 2001 brought about a long-overdue clean up of the city (see The New Naples).
Area Archeologica de Santa Restituta, Ischia

Below the 19th-century church lies an area where you can see remains of a 4th-century Christian basilica.
Aret’ a’ Palm

The name is Neapolitan for “behind the palm”, which is just where this bar is located, on a laid-back piazza. Crowds show up at this stylish spot for the mix of world music and jazzy sounds.
Around Ischia

A fairly good road rings the island.

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Restaurant price categories

For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
- under €20
- €20–30
- €30–40
- €40–50
- over €50