From one perspective, this area is an anomaly, at once one of the earth’s most beautiful and yet most accursed places. It has been the choice of the great and wealthy as their playground, while also being the scene of some of the greatest natural disasters and the grittiest human misery. Perhaps these irreconcilable twists of fate are at the root of the Neapolitans’ famously optimistic cynicism. The city of Naples itself is a vibrant urban setting, almost non-European in its intensity, while the beauty of the surrounding coast has been known to make grown men weep.
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The overall impression here is light-filled freshness, cool colours and serenity, yet it’s just a few steps away from all the high-life in the piazzetta and the shops and restaurants. A wonderful place for a Capri sojourn.
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Capri Town’s main square may be small but it’s big on la vita mondana (sophisticated lifestyle). The little bars, with their cluster of outdoor tables, are a magnet for daytrippers and locals alike, although the latter turn up after dark after the former have moved on.
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Magnetic at any time of day or night, this is Capri’s most frequented spot. Marked by the little domed belltower, it has several cafés with tables outside, surrounded by whitewashed arcades (see Capri).
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One of Naples’ oldest markets and as cheap as it gets.
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A beautiful spot, set amid citrus trees, serves traditional home-cooking using fresh ingredients from the garden.
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A palatial establishment that attracts well-heeled guests. It’s all done up in signature Amalfi Coast style, with vibrant majolica tiles and lots of antiques. The pool is small, but there is a gym, and the hotel restaurant is renowned.
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Hidden away at the top of a flight of stairs just off Via Chiaia, this is gourmet dining, with dishes crafted according to seasonal choices.
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This relaxed bar occupies the choicest spot on this inviting little piazza. The musical selections tend towards Latin sounds. Despite the name, however, they serve no tapas .
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With its clifftop setting and elegant interiors, this is an amazing find; fills up very fast, so book in advance. Guests enjoy a pleasant private beach and a good restaurant in a wonderful glass-walled setting with panoramas of the bay.
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Equally traditional as “da Michele” – and just across the street – this eatery is more up-market, with a larger choice. The decor is appealing, recalling the city’s belle époque heyday.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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Hotel price categories
For a standard, double room per night (with breakfast if included), taxes and extra charges.
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