DK Travel : Naples & the Amalfi Coast

From one perspective, this area is an anomaly, at once one of the earth’s most beautiful and yet most accursed places. It has been the choice of the great and wealthy as their playground, while also being the scene of some of the greatest natural disasters and the grittiest human misery. Perhaps these irreconcilable twists of fate are at the root of the Neapolitans’ famously optimistic cynicism. The city of Naples itself is a vibrant urban setting, almost non-European in its intensity, while the beauty of the surrounding coast has been known to make grown men weep.

La Vecchia Cantina

Taking full advantage of its location next to the market, this place serves seriously fresh fish at delightful prices.
La Zagara, Positano

A major tourist magnet, but there’s no denying that the treats they turn out here are delicious: pastries, cakes, fresh fruit sorbets and the like. The patio, with fragrant lemon trees, is captivating.
Largo Corpo di Napoli

The ancient statue of the Nile on this square was once thought to be that of a woman suckling her young.
Le Fontane al Mare

This tiny, old-fashioned pensione is located on the top floors of a 19thcentury building along the seafront. For sea views, choose rooms without a bathroom.
Le Grotelle Restaurant, Anacapri

The cuisine here is simple, homemade fare that includes seafood, fish, pasta, chicken and perhaps rabbit, while the wine is local and very creditable. What makes it so romantic is the unsurpassed setting. Not only is it close to nature, being situated almost all the way down to the Arco Naturale, but the terrace tables also enjoy an eye-popping view straight down to the sea, along a precipitous ravine. In addition, the friendly owners do their best to make any meal a memorable event.
Le quattro giornate napoletane

On 27–30 September 1943 Neapolitans showed their true character. After the occupying Nazis threatened to deport all the city’s young males, four days of rioting by the populace kept the Germans so busy that the Allies were able to get a toehold and rout the enemy.
Leucio, Casertavecchia-San Leucio

A 10-minute drive north of Caserta. Try risotto vergine , with squid, prawns and cuttlefish.
Lidomare, Amalfi

A charming, familyrun pensione with large, airy rooms, tiled floors and antique furniture.
Limonoro, Sorrento

One of the top souvenirs from the area is limoncello , the signature lemon liqueur. This is a good place to see it being made, after which you’ll know why it packs such a punch – it’s basically pure alcohol with flavouring.
Liqueurs

The most famous of these is the lemon liqueur limoncello , delivering quite a kick.

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Restaurant price categories

For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
- under €20
- €20–30
- €30–40
- €40–50
- over €50
Hotel price categories

For a standard, double room per night (with breakfast if included), taxes and extra charges.
- under €100
- €100–150
- €150–200
- €200–300
- over €300