From one perspective, this area is an anomaly, at once one of the earth’s most beautiful and yet most accursed places. It has been the choice of the great and wealthy as their playground, while also being the scene of some of the greatest natural disasters and the grittiest human misery. Perhaps these irreconcilable twists of fate are at the root of the Neapolitans’ famously optimistic cynicism. The city of Naples itself is a vibrant urban setting, almost non-European in its intensity, while the beauty of the surrounding coast has been known to make grown men weep.
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The sister of Marie Antoinette was the power behind the throne of her husband, Ferdinand IV (1768–1811).
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A very precipitous path goes straight down to this tiny beach. A few fishermen’s homes cluster here, with their boats neatly moored along one side, and there’s a bar-restaurant.
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This small cove, just beyond Positano, has a bit of beach you can generally call your own, as few tourists stop here. However you will share the cove with local fishing boats, a couple of bar-restaurants, a diving centre and the coast’s premier disco, Africana (see Praiano).
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This breathtaking cliff road is best experienced in one of the island’s classic open-top taxis.
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One of the best restaurants in town, set right on the sea. Original dishes include seafood ravioli with arugula (rocket) sauce.
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One of the most child-friendly beaches in the area: the water is tranquil and the bathing areas well protected. For all the water toys and gear you might require, as well as sunscreen, there are lots of shops handy, and a wide choice of places to eat. Changing rooms, umbrellas and sunbeds are available, too (see Marina Piccola)
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A 15th-century Crucifixion by this Tuscan painter (1401–28) is one of the treasures of the Capodimonte Museum. The work is a blend of the formal medieval tradition and the vitality of the Renaissance. Of note are the anatomical accuracy of Christ’s torso and the sense of drama created by the outstretched arms of Mary Magdalene.
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To the west of Sorrento, this is one of several fishing villages clustered around little ports. Rarely crowded, the site affords wonderful views across to Capri from the belvedere in Largo Vescovado. At Marina di Lobra there’s a beach and a collection of pretty houses.
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Embodying the heart of the Neapolitan character, this actor made international waves with Il Postino (The Postman) , nominated for an Academy Award in 1995. Sadly, after the film was completed, Troisi died at the age of 41.
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An up-market outlet for stylish clothing, including a good range of designer labels from Italy, France and Spain.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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