From one perspective, this area is an anomaly, at once one of the earth’s most beautiful and yet most accursed places. It has been the choice of the great and wealthy as their playground, while also being the scene of some of the greatest natural disasters and the grittiest human misery. Perhaps these irreconcilable twists of fate are at the root of the Neapolitans’ famously optimistic cynicism. The city of Naples itself is a vibrant urban setting, almost non-European in its intensity, while the beauty of the surrounding coast has been known to make grown men weep.
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This fascinating museum, set in an old warehouse, preserves one of Europe’s first papermaking factories. Visitors can see the original stone vats and machinery downstairs, and there’s also an interesting exhibit tracing the history and technical progress of the paper industry over the centuries.
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This monastery complex is home to several collections of art. The Pinacoteca, comprising part of the Prior’s Quarters, is notable for its works from the Renaissance and Baroque eras, many having been commissioned for the monastery. On the upper floors, 19th-century works convey the look and feel of Naples in the days of Italian Unification. A section devoted to Nativity scenes demonstrates the power and beauty of this uniquely Neapolitan art form (see Certosa di San Martino).
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Since 1927 this former villa of a king’s morganatic wife has been home to a prestigious collection of European and Oriental decorative art. Of the 6,000 objects, highlights are Hispano-Moorish lustreware, Italian majolica tiles, Limoges porcelain and 18th-century Oriental porcelain (see Museo Nazionale della Ceramica Duca di Martina, Naples).
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Naples is famous for fine ceramic production and this museum provides rich amplification of the theme. Not only are exquisite Italian pieces found here, by Capodimonte and Ginori artisans, but also splendid creations by the factories of Meissen, Limoges, Sèvres and Saint-Cloud. Majolica works, from medieval times onwards, are also well represented, and the collection of Chinese and Japanese ceramics, from as far back as the T’ang Dynasty, is one of the country’s best.
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Sorrento has been known since the mid-18th century for its fine inlaid wood furniture and objects (intarsio ) and this museum is devoted to the delicate art. Displayed in a beautifully restored palace, the exhibits also include paintings, old photos and other Sorrentine memorabilia.
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What started out in Ravello now includes concert venues up and down the Amalfi Coast (see Villa Rufolo).
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The weeknight attraction at this club, evocatively set inside a cavern, is the soulful sounds of the resident pianist Claudio Fiori. At weekends the place turns into a nightclub equipped with high-energy house and techno. Cover charge.
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This company has flats to rent either by the day or week in Naples. The website is easy to use; alternatively, stop by and talk to them in their office.
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Greats of the golden age of Italian cinema all felt inspired to communicate their impressions of Naples. Notable films include Roberto Rossellini’s Viaggio in Italia (1953) and Francesco Rossi’s Mani Sulla Città (1963).
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On 21 October 1860 Naples voted to join a united Italy, under the rulership of an Italian king, Vittorio Emanuele II – Garibaldi had entered the city two months previously to gather up support.
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Hotel price categories
For a standard, double room per night (with breakfast if included), taxes and extra charges.
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