From one perspective, this area is an anomaly, at once one of the earth’s most beautiful and yet most accursed places. It has been the choice of the great and wealthy as their playground, while also being the scene of some of the greatest natural disasters and the grittiest human misery. Perhaps these irreconcilable twists of fate are at the root of the Neapolitans’ famously optimistic cynicism. The city of Naples itself is a vibrant urban setting, almost non-European in its intensity, while the beauty of the surrounding coast has been known to make grown men weep.
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This Sorrento square is noteworthy for the 15th-century building from which it takes its name. The edifice was an open-air meeting place for the local aristocracy under the Angevin rulers and the fine arcaded loggia, partially enclosed by balustrades, still preserves some faded frescoes and a majolica dome. These days, the structure is the focus of the local working men’s club.
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A simple yet well laid-out hotel with a lovely pool and views.
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A 1700 farmhouse converted into a romantic bed and breakfast. Located in the centre of Forio on the island of Ischia. Restaurants and bus stops are within easy walking distance and the owner is extremely friendly. He speaks English, although does let you practise your Italian on him.
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The first railway in the area was inaugurated by King Ferdinand II in 1839 and 150 years later the railway workshop was opened as a museum. It’s the largest of its kind in Europe and has impressive displays, including a magnificent reconstruction of the first royal train here and a line-up of later carriages, many of them lavishly gilded.
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Many scholars now credit this Roman artist (c.1250–c.1330) with much of the St Francis fresco in Assisi, until recently attributed to Giotto. His work in Naples includes Scenes from the Lives of Christ and John the Baptist in San Domenico Maggiore.
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For lovers of Neapolitan Baroque this little-known gallery is a must. Part of a monastic complex, there are fine works by Carracciolo, Vaccaro, Giordano, and several by Ribera, featuring his signature taste for the outrageous and extreme.
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This traditional pasticceria (pastry shop) is an excellent choice for procuring the signature Neapolitan sweets, particularly sfogliatella and babà (see Pastries).
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This seaside café is a great place for kicking back and watching the world go by, with some of the city’s most captivating views. Excellent snacks, as well.
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Dating from 1878 and redolent of bygone days, this hotel is very stylish, with Art Nouveau touches and an overall aura of gentility. It’s in one of the nicest parts of town, not far from the Villa Comunale. Many rooms have great views of the bay, and air-conditioning is available at an extra charge.
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This charitable institution was founded in 1601, inspired by Counter-Reformation precepts which gave weight to such works as a way of ensuring salvation. The church is set back from the street by a five-arch loggia, where pilgrims could find shelter. The altarpiece, The Acts of Mercy by Caravaggio, is a snapshot of a Neapolitan street in the 17th century.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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Hotel price categories
For a standard, double room per night (with breakfast if included), taxes and extra charges.
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