From one perspective, this area is an anomaly, at once one of the earth’s most beautiful and yet most accursed places. It has been the choice of the great and wealthy as their playground, while also being the scene of some of the greatest natural disasters and the grittiest human misery. Perhaps these irreconcilable twists of fate are at the root of the Neapolitans’ famously optimistic cynicism. The city of Naples itself is a vibrant urban setting, almost non-European in its intensity, while the beauty of the surrounding coast has been known to make grown men weep.
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Irish pubs have been popular in Italy for decades, and this one has excellent food, beers on tap, and great music, including live performers at times.
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Perhaps it’s the water, or the quality of the flour or yeast used, but Neapolitan pizza is inimitable. It’s spongy, chewy, succulent and melts in your mouth, while the toppings are flavourful and aromatic. Purists insist that it was invented here centuries ago and that the only true pizza is the simplest, the margherita – tomato, basil and mozzarella cheese, with a sprinkling of olive oil.
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A celebration of the city’s most famous dish, as pizzaioli (pizza-makers) spin their dough.
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Little more than a counter with a few plastic tables in front, this little place turns out delicious pizzette and other goodies in seconds.
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The main restaurant dates from 1935, but there is also a stand-up branch next door where you can watch pizza makers twirl the dough, dash on the topping and pop it into the brick oven.
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This place specializes in “pizza DOC” – an aromatic combination of mozzarella balls, pomodorini (cherry tomatoes) and basil.
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Delicious pizza, as well as pasta e fagioli (with beans) and their signature dish cianfotta (mixed vegetables with bacon).
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Probably founded in the 7th century BC, this was the first settlement in Naples.
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At the beginning of the 17th century Naples was Europe’s largest city, with a population of some 300,000, but in 1656 a plague struck. After six months, three-quarters of the population were buried in mass graves.
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Thanks to this writer (AD 62–113) we know much about the day Vesuvius erupted and buried Pompeii (see The Eruption of AD 79).
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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