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This 16th-century church is said to mark the spot where Naples’ patron saint was decapitated, and the brown stain on a stone here is said to be his blood.

Excellent, wood-fired pizza is served here for both lunch and dinner. The heat of traditional wood ovens flash-bakes the dough, preventing the toppings from becoming soggy.

Noted all over Naples for its wonderful traditional pastries, it’s a real treat to sample the wares while checking out this piazza. Don’t arrive too late or you may find they’ve sold out.

A hands-on, interactive “experimentorium”, with something for everyone, even the very young. Included in the exhibits are a planetarium as well as upto-date computer gizmos, all of which seem to transcend language barriers (see Science City, Posillipo).

This hands-on science centre is designed to educate and entertain kids of all ages.

These two characters, products of the poverty the city has historically suffered, are street urchins and ruffians. Both have been heavily romanticized by outsiders, yet their sly wisdom and wit are traits all Neapolitans seem to aspire to.

Scamorza (grilled smoked mozzarella) is always included in this part of the menu, as are omelettes. Meat dishes include vitello (veal), polpette (meatballs), carne alla pizzaiola (with tomato and basil sauce), involtini (beef or ham rolls), agnello (lamb) or coniglio alla cacciatora (rabbit stew).

Although some experts believe that this magnificent structure served a military purpose in Roman times, others hold with a mythological origin. Walking along the unusual wedge-shaped walls, pierced at intervals with shafts of light, creates a decidedly hypnotic effect on most visitors, as if in preparation for an encounter with the great oracle herself in her grotto (see Cumae).

With the removal of the capital to the mainland, Sicilian resentment came to a head on Easter Monday 1282. A riot, known as the Sicilian Vespers, left 2,000 Frenchmen dead and initiated a 20-year war. Finally, Sicily was lost and the Angevin kings focused their entire attention on Naples, leading to a period of ever greater prosperity.