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The colloquial name of this ancient street means “Splits Naples”, which is exactly what it does, cutting the oldest part of the city right down the middle. Beginning at the western end in Piazza del Gesù Nuovo, a straight line takes you past some of the city’s finest monuments. In addition, there are shops, bars, cafés and pizzerias (see Spaccanapoli to Capodimonte).

This runaway slave led a revolt of the oppressed from headquarters on Vesuvius.

Few know that there’s a pleasant alternative to the crowded main beach at Positano, with its rows of sunbeds and umbrellas. To get to Fornillo, head west on the path past the ’O Guarracino restaurant, around the cliff. It’s a rocky beach, overlooked by two towers, but there’s a café-restaurant and facilities (see Positano).

Most bars are set up, in summer, to turn out freshly squeezed orange juice and a local version of lemonade.

The theologian (1225–74) was often a guest at San Domenico Maggiore, headquarters for religious study at the University of Naples.

Given its location opposite the central station and its modern demeanour, this comfortable hotel caters mostly to corporate clients. A decent choice for those on the move.

The writer (69–140) is famous for his Twelve Caesars , scandalous accounts of the first Roman emperors.

An excellent, tiny jazz bar, with first-rate drinks and snacks. It’s also a sometimes gallery for Naples’ new crop of photographers and artists.

The best places for swimming in the sea are away from Naples proper, either at beaches and coves on the islands or along the coast around Sorrento and Amalfi (see Beaches).

Another chic venue, but less pretentious. Although there’s no dance floor, the good selection of music keeps things moving.