From one perspective, this area is an anomaly, at once one of the earth’s most beautiful and yet most accursed places. It has been the choice of the great and wealthy as their playground, while also being the scene of some of the greatest natural disasters and the grittiest human misery. Perhaps these irreconcilable twists of fate are at the root of the Neapolitans’ famously optimistic cynicism. The city of Naples itself is a vibrant urban setting, almost non-European in its intensity, while the beauty of the surrounding coast has been known to make grown men weep.
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In an appealing little piazza just off Spaccanapoli this funky music shop is good if you’re looking for CDs of local music. The proprietor will help you find everything from traditional tarantella music to the latest Neapolitan rockers.
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The “Soul and Heart” taverna is still redolent of la dolce vita vibes of decades past and is considered Capri’s premier nightclub. It attracts a chic, yet fun-loving crowd.
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This showy place features decor reminiscent of ancient Roman wall paintings – complete with trompe-l’oeil scenery. Good value.
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Fringe, experimental and the best of new international theatre is the keynote here.
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The oldest working opera theatre in Europe, 40 years older than Milan’s La Scala.
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Actually an appendage to the Palazzo Reale, built by order of King Charles, this opera house predates the famous La Scala in Milan by some 40 years. Officially opened on 4 November 1737, it has never ceased to be one of the most important and innovative opera houses in the world. The interior was originally done up in the Bourbon colours of silver, gold and sky blue, but after being rebuilt following a fire in 1816 the colour scheme is now mostly gold and red, though no less sumptuous. It was compared by French writer Stendhal to an Oriental emperor’s palace. A museum is due to open soon.
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Tennis is very much in favour among Italians, and there are good clay courts in Naples, as well as plenty on the islands. Some are beautifully landscaped garden spots and are floodlit at night as well. Most welcome non-members for a reasonable hourly fee and rent equipment of all kinds. Some provide rackets free of charge and will also line you up with a partner if necessary.
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Mud treatments and massage.
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Luxury massage and treatments.
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A spa since ancient times. Mud-baths and mineral waters.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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