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From one perspective, this area is an anomaly, at once one of the earth’s most beautiful and yet most accursed places. It has been the choice of the great and wealthy as their playground, while also being the scene of some of the greatest natural disasters and the grittiest human misery. Perhaps these irreconcilable twists of fate are at the root of the Neapolitans’ famously optimistic cynicism. The city of Naples itself is a vibrant urban setting, almost non-European in its intensity, while the beauty of the surrounding coast has been known to make grown men weep.
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This lively, welcoming place is top of most locals’ list, for both quality and price. The cooking features seafood, antipasti and pizzas.
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With the fall of the Roman Empire in the 5th century, the area was overrun by tribes from the north, particularly the Goths. In 553 the Byzantine emperor Justinian’s chief general Belisarius conquered the zone.
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Not just a great café with an appealing atmosphere, but a purveyor of delicious Arabic goodies and full meals.
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This establishment turns out full Middle Eastern meals. The kebabs are perfectly grilled and the honeyed desserts superb.
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Dating back to 1886, this place knows all about quality. Enjoy an espresso and a cornetto (croissant) at one of the outside tables – or make like a local and stand at the bar.
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This belle époque institution still retains much of its original decor. It was popular with free-thinking intellectuals and writers in the past and closed down by the Fascists as a result. The pastries and buffet lunch are particularly good.
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The café’s main claim to fame is its location right next to the Neptune Fountain. Tables outside provide you with an excellent vantage point.
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This modest trattoria serves pasta, risotto and grilled fish.
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A great choice along the sandy beach known as Spiaggia dei Maronti.
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The menu changes daily but is always authentic. Dishes such as melanzane alla parmigiana (aubergine/eggplant with mozzarella and tomato).
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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Hotel price categories
For a standard, double room per night (with breakfast if included), taxes and extra charges.
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