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For centuries Naples has been internationally noted for its production of figures for nativity scenes, many produced by the very best sculptors, especially in the 18th century, and reproduced to this day by skilled artisans whose botteghe (work-shops) line the streets of the old town. A popular secular figure, done in a variety of media, including terracotta, papier mâché , wood, or a combination of materials, is Pulcinella. There are also all sorts of other delightful puppets, dolls and masks.
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The air of mystery that envelops this 17th-century palace has given rise to various rumours. One claims that Queen Joan II used it for illicit trysts, after which she had her lovers tossed into the sea.
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A sfogliatella (pastry filled with ricotta cheese) is a sublime way to start the day, accompanied by a cup of coffee. Other treats include babà (cake soaked in rum and honey) and zeppole (pastry filled with custard and topped with wild cherries).
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Perhaps it’s the water, or the quality of the flour or yeast used, but Neapolitan pizza is inimitable. It’s spongy, chewy, succulent and melts in your mouth, while the toppings are flavourful and aromatic. Purists insist that it was invented here centuries ago and that the only true pizza is the simplest, the margherita – tomato, basil and mozzarella cheese, with a sprinkling of olive oil.
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Piles of everything here, especially shoes.
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Clothing, shoes and bags.
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This course usually means pasta or rice, but minestre and zuppe (soups) also appear in this category. Great primi to look for are spaghetti alle vongole veraci (with clams), pasta e fagioli (with beans), fettucine alla puttanesca (egg noodles with tomato, capers, black olives and red pepper) and risotto alla pescatora (rice with seafood).
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Full-bodied reds come from the local Aglianico grape.
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Roman “antiques”.
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Spices and fish stalls, clothing and jewellery.
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