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Believe it or not, souvenir stalls outside archaeological sites – notably Pompeii – can be good sources of creditable copies of famous Roman sculptures, but you’ll need to pick through the junk and be prepared to bargain.

The tradition of miniature carvings in stone is an ancient one – the Romans (and their Renaissance imitators) used precious and semiprecious stones, from agate to emerald, as well as layered glass. Today the tradition (see Reggia di Portici & the Vesuvian Villas) primarily focuses on gems from the sea. Coral is prized for its rich colours and soft texture, while shells are fashioned into delicate cameos.

To the left of the main square are stalls selling coral jewellery.

Naples at its grittiest, with a mind-boggling range of stuff.

Many restaurants produce their own digestive concoctions – pure alcohol with a soothing mixture of spices and flavourings.

Many Neapolitan desserts are inspired by their Sicilian cousins, notably delizie , a cream-filled cake, and pannacotta (cooked cream), perhaps topped with fresh fruit. In season, the melon, figs and wild strawberries are unforgettable.

As much junk as genuine antiques, but great fun.

This category is, of course, the area’s strong point. Calamari (squid) are a favourite, as are cozze (mussels) in a variety of delicious presentations. Seppie (cuttlefish) and polipo (octopus) are popular, too, stewed, fried or steamed. Pesce all’acqua pazza (fish in “crazy water”) is a treat – fresh fish stewed in water with tomatoes, garlic and chillies.

Mozzarella di bufala is the signature cheese from the area. The milk of the buffalo has a tangy quality and the cheese develops a unique smoothness. The smoked version is provola .

Italian artisans have been famed for centuries for their goldwork, from refined chains to elaborate table centrepieces. Neapolitan artists have inherited these traditions since ancient times and local jewellery shops attest to the beauty of their creations. All gold used is at least 18 carat and prices are comparable with those in other countries, while the quality is higher.