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Gouache is a watercolour paint applied to heavy paper that gives a very soft yet vibrant look to the surface of a painting. In the 19th century gouache landscapes of Naples, its bay and Vesuvius were produced in great numbers and many are still available at surprisingly reasonable prices. These were the postcard souvenirs for Grand Tour visitors, and to the modern eye they evoke a sense of idyllic charm. There are also prints of the more famous scenes.
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Amalfi was once home to a thriving paper industry (see Museo della Carta, Amalfi) and the tradition carries on here in a limited way. Neapolitan playing cards and tarocchi (tarot) cards are sold in Naples.
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There are a number of cobblers on the island (see Sandalmakers, Capri) who will make made-to-measure sandals within a matter of hours.
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Camomilla (camomile) is considered to be a palliative, while other herbal teas on offer include menta (peppermint) and tiglio (lime-tree).
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Besides the host of fresh leaves and cherry tomatoes that end up in the wonderful salads (insalata ) here, there are two famous cold dishes from the area. The insalata caprese is the essence of simplicity, relying on quality mozzarella di bufala , ripe tomatoes and aromatic basil. Caponata may include marinated aubergine (eggplant), artichoke hearts and capers, with bread chunks to soak up the flavours.
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Renowned for centuries for its gorgeous intarsio (marquetry), Sorrento continues the tradition to this day, and some of the pieces are true works of art.
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One of Naples’ oldest markets and as cheap as it gets.
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The most famous of these is the lemon liqueur limoncello , delivering quite a kick.
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As much trash as treasure, but you’re sure to find something.
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Italians enjoy a huge array of mineral waters. A great choice is Ferrarelle – or for something lighter, Uliveto.
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