traveldk.com

Cumae was founded in the 8th century BC and played a significant part in history, due to its resident seeress. The Cumaean Sibyl, priestess of Apollo and similar to her counterpart at Delphi, was an oracle who exerted great influence, and the leaders of Rome depended on her prophecies and guidance in times of crisis. A visit to the Sibyl’s Grotto, with its weird trapezoidal entrance tunnel, remains an enigmatic experience.

The bas-relief of the Assumption, the cardinal’s head and the caryatid on the right of the Tomb of Cardinal Rinaldo Brancaccio in Sant’Angelo a Nilo church are assumed to be the only pieces in Naples by this Florentine master (1386–1466).

Although its position in the present-day street-plan seems to be an afterthought and the perfunctory Neo-Gothic façade is less than inspiring, inside Naples’ cathedral is a fascinating cornucopia of history, art and local culture. There are ancient remains of the Greek and Roman cities to explore, including some beautiful paleo-Christian mosaics in the baptistry, and splendid art abounds in the main church and its chapels, including the huge work dedicated to the city’s patron saint, Gennaro (Januarius).

De Filippo (1900–84) combined the roles of comic actor, manager and playwright. His comedies, originally in the Neapolitan dialect, revolve around the petty concerns of family life and were performed by his family troupe. His best known film is Napoli Milionaria (1950).

Arguably the most famous tenor ever, Caruso was born in Naples in 1873. His 1901performance at the San Carlo was so heavily criticized that he never sang in Naples again.

Naples finally fell to the Normans in 1139. As a result, the established trade with the East went into decline and Naples became a feudal possession, beholden to Sicily. Nevertheless, the Norman period was one of relative prosperity.

In February 1816 fire destroyed the San Carlo. In a few months the theatre had been rebuilt with perfect acoustics.

Donizetti composed 16 operas for the San Carlo, including Lucia di Lammermoor .

This small modern theatre, in the thick of the teeming Quartieri Spagnoli, offers more challenging theatrical fare, both intelligent, avant-garde local works and new international fringe and experimental plays, translated into Italian.