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Leave the coast road and climb up and up for a vista unlike any other.

A fairly good road rings the island.

Once you get away from the smart shops and hotels, this island is all about nature walks: up to Villa Jovis, down to the Arco Naturale, through the forest to the Blue Grotto – the possibilities are numerous.

Anacapri’s top hotel also has a spa and beauty treatment centre.

Begin at Lago d’Averno and pass under the Arco Felice to arrive at the ancient site of Cumae.

In Roman times this street, now known as Via dei Tribunali, was the main east-west artery of the city. It constitutes the heart of the old quarter and is replete with unmissable sights, as well as intriguing shops and bars and cafés to while away the hours.

The islands have diving centres, as do parts of the Amalfi Coast, where courses are available and you can rent or buy any equipment you might need. Some organize night dives and marine nature dives for the experienced. Otherwise, rent or buy a mask, snorkel and a pair of flippers and paddle about to your heart’s content; there’s plenty to see just under the surface in the quieter coves and tide pools.

The beach at Erchie is a small cove graced by a watch-tower, fishing boats and a few houses. At Cetara bathers share the narrow rocky strip with boats, but it’s good for a dip.

The top spectator sport in Italy is, of course, calcio (football/soccer). So important is it in Naples – the city that in the days of the phenomenal Diego Maradona was number one in the world – that fans fervently pray to the city’s patron saint, San Gennaro, to intercede in the score. To witness the euphoria for yourself, attend a match on alternate Sundays between September and June at Stadio San Paolo.